I Backpack Canada » West http://ibackpackcanada.com A backpackers travel guide to Canada Fri, 15 Mar 2013 14:45:15 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5 See Churchill on the Cheap with Tundra House Hostel http://ibackpackcanada.com/see-churchill-on-the-cheap-with-tundra-house-hostel/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=see-churchill-on-the-cheap-with-tundra-house-hostel http://ibackpackcanada.com/see-churchill-on-the-cheap-with-tundra-house-hostel/#comments Tue, 30 Oct 2012 12:04:26 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5369 See Churchill on the Cheap with Tundra House Hostel is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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When a new hostel opens up in Canada, particularly those in unique or new settings, I can’t help but get excited. In the small town of Churchill, Manitoba, home of the polar bears, belugas, and all things arctic adventure related, the Tundra House Hostel opened its doors to eager backpackers and budget travellers from all over the world. Tundra House Hostel is Churchill’s first, and only hostel, and possibly one of my favourite hostels I stayed at during my cross Canada travels.

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I was picked up, alongside a french canadian fellow and a korean exchange student, at the VIA Rail Churchill Station by Belinda Fitzpatrick, the owner and manager of Tundra Inn and Tundra House Hostel. On our short drive, I learned that she’s an Australian that fell in love with the north and never left. She married a local fellow and started the hostel, based on her worldly experiences, and has been loving every day of it. She gave us a brief run down on safety and smiled the entire time, clearly loving what she does.

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Welcome to the Tundra House Hostel

As we pulled up to 51 Franklin Street, Belinda showed us around the Tundra House Hostel. I hung up my jacket and took a quick tour of this cute and cozy home away from home, with a shared kitchen, on-site laundry, free wifi, private and dorm style rooms, and one of the most comfy common living rooms I’ve ever set foot in. The spacious dining area is the perfect place to swap stories with other travellers or share a beer.

The Tundra House Hostel is a stones throw away from the Tundra Inn Pub, what would soon become one of my favourite spots to grab a pint and a delicious bite. If you’re in Churchill for squeezing in as many tours as humanly possible, you’ll be happy to hear that you’re never more than a few blocks away from your tour operators. Whether you plan on getting out in the Tundra Buggy, or want to kayak with Belugas, it’s a superb location for those wanting to experience as much of Churchill as possible.

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Tundra House Hostel Does It Right

I’ve been to countless hostels. Between the small run ma & pop hostels to the big chain HI Hostels, to the party fueled hostels of Samesun Backpackers. While each have something unique to offer, the Tundra House Hostel pulls off something incredible. Within half a day, this place became my home away from home. Friends share stories, connections are made, and next thing you know you find out you’ve got a lot of the same interests. The common question you’ll hear in Churchill is “What brought you up this far north?” – the answer seems to be consistent. Adventure, curiosity, wildlife, or for some, because it was on the VIA Rail line.

Churchill is a beautiful destination, and while it can be a bit pricey in terms of accommodation, Tundra House Hostel is a breathe of fresh air for the budget traveller. With rooms starting at $32 per night, it’s perfect for squeezing the most of your money and putting it into some of the unique tours & experiences that are offered in Churchill.

Tundra House Hostel

51 Franklin Street, Churchill MB

Phone: (204) 675-8831

Toll-Free: 1-800-265-8563

See Churchill on the Cheap with Tundra House Hostel is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind http://ibackpackcanada.com/8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind http://ibackpackcanada.com/8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind/#comments Tue, 23 Oct 2012 13:00:13 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5375 8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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This summer I had the opportunity to travel to the mecca of arctic adventures. Churchill, Manitoba – home of the polar bears, the belugas, tundra buggy’s, zodiac adventures, and some of the friendliest Canadians you’ll come to meet. In this small town of less than 1000 people, travellers from all over the world board VIA Rail in Winnipeg and take the 2 day northbound journey to the edge of the Hudson Bay to find out what goes on this far north. Little did I know I’d be aching to return. These are the 8 reasons I can’t get Churchill off my mind!

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The Metis Infinity Flag

1. The Local People

On the northbound train from Winnipeg to Churchill, you’ll hear stories. People warn you to be careful up there. While you should be careful wherever you go, and avoid confrontation with everyone you meet while traveling, those warnings were completely blown out of the water after the first day in Churchill. Between the friendly staff, the locals walking by on the street, and yes, even the beer drinkers at the pub, I didn’t have a single run in with anyone I couldn’t shoot the poop with. The people of Churchill are a friendly bunch and happy to talk travel, wildlife, and adventures. With such a beautiful landscape surrounding the region, locals of every colour, culture, and creed tend to have something good to say about Churchill.

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2. The Danger

There’s something exciting, knowing that every time you step foot outside of a house or building, you have to be aware of your surroundings. Traipsing around without a care in the world, could lead you to be a tasty dinner for a full grown polar bear. While it’d be crazy for everyone to carry a gun wherever they went, the people of Churchill have devised a much simpler solution. They don’t lock their doors. Should you come across a big hungry polar bear, run to the nearest house and you’re almost guaranteed to be able to walk right in, and stay until the bear is dealt with. Tour companies like the Tundra Buggy Tours deal with this danger by using custom built giant bus’s tall enough to keep standing polar bears at bay.

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3. The Wildlife

While there are no doubt some dangers when you visit a small town that is more or less surrounded by Polar Bears, fact is, they’re what bring most people up north. I’ll never forget, as I was on a zodiac in the middle of the Churchill River, less than a couple Miles from the Hudson Bay, seeing a Polar Bear enjoying a meal he’d caught at the edge of the water. While Polar Bears are the celebrities up here, the Belugas are a close second in the fame game. Since beluga’s were more friendly to me snapping photos, they win this reason! Be sure to have a good zoom lens if you plan on taking any photos of wildlife – or at the very least a decent set of binoculars. You’ll thank me later!

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4. The Adventures

If seeing wildlife from afar isn’t enough, the folks at Sea North Adventure Tours can get you closer than anyone to the belugas & polar bears. Between their Kayak Adventures, their Zodiac Tours, & their boat tours, they also offer snorkelling with Belugas, where you get up close and personal with these magnificent creatures. In the small town of Churchill, there is no shortage of adventures to find yourself on. Go off-roading in the Tundra Buggy’s, custom built giant rovers that cruise over land and water in search of Polar Bears. Churchill isn’t just somewhere you can stop over for a day and say you saw it. In order to experience every bit of it, you need to get out of town and see what this place is really all about.

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5. The Travellers

I’m not sure what it is. Maybe the cold air, the difficulty in getting this far north, or just the spirit of adventure that Churchill inspires within people, but the travellers / tourists that find themselves up here. They’re cut from a different cloth. They’re here for unique reasons. During my brief stay in Churchill I met multiple German backpackers, exploring all that Canada has to offer, I had beers with two women from Minnesota who spent over 2 months kayaking to Churchill, I met a French Canadian student protester who explained to me in his point of view what the big fuss was all about, and a korean student who came up to Churchill on a whim to find work. Those who find themselves up here tend be of the inspirational & interesting variety.

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6. The History

The Dorset, The Thule, The Dene, The Chipewyan and the Cree Natives had all inhabited this region. Their history, art, and culture can be absorbed at the Churchill Eskimo Museum, home to some knowledgeable staff, and a variety of carvings, and historical findings from the area. They say that it was the Dorset & Thule people who encountered the Vikings in the 11th century. Their people recount how large and strong the vikings were, but how easily they were scared off. If first nations history isn’t your cup, Churchill Fort is a must. Suspected to be built by the stone masons, and home to some incredible british and french colonialism history.

Tundra Pub Churchill Manitoba

7. The Food

Despite the fact that food is difficult to get up north, which in turn makes fresh goods tough to come by, the local Churchill restaurants do surprisingly well. Grab a hearty breakfast at the Seaport Hotel, then work up an apetite for lunch. Gypsy’s Bakery & Restaurant pump out high quality food that keeps everyone coming back. After getting a healthy dose of outdoors and wildlife, stop by The Tundra Inn Pub. This isn’t your average pub grub. Between the quality salads, the massive burgers, the superb pizzas, and their sushi Friday’s, they’ve got plenty to choose from. Hang around after for some live music, billiards, and some good old fashion drinking. A night or two at The Tundra Inn Pub will guarantee you at least a couple of stories to take home.

Tundra House Hostel

8. The Tundra House Hostel

While there are several great hotel deals in the area, I can’t say enough about my stay at the Tundra House Hostel. It’s really more of a house than a hostel, but I think I can speak for many, in saying that when you’re travelling, the revolving door of the “big chain hostels” can sometimes make it hard to meet people. The great thing about Tundra House Hostel is not only how cozy it is, but how easy it is to meet people. After all, the train is only in town a couple of times per week, so you’re guaranteed a few days with other travellers, which is plenty of time to make friendships that can last a lifetime. The beds are outstanding and clean, the kitchen, dining room, and living room are exactly what you’d expect to find in any ordinary house. After a long day of taking in Churchill, unwind in the living room and decompress to the sound of the ticking clock.

Churchill has a way of keeping people. You’ll meet countless locals with the same story. One visit, followed by a second, then they never really left, or at least keep finding themselves back in this unique part of Canada. It reminds me a lot of Dawson City in the Yukon. Slightly closed off from the rest of the world. While accessible to most, the difficulty of getting up there keeps the box stores and the chain restaurants away.  The locals seem truly grateful for each tourist or traveller they meet in their own slice of the tundra. It’s a beautiful thing to see a small town thrive.

8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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The White Pass & Yukon Route – Gateway to the North http://ibackpackcanada.com/the-white-pass-yukon-route-gateway-to-the-north/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-white-pass-yukon-route-gateway-to-the-north http://ibackpackcanada.com/the-white-pass-yukon-route-gateway-to-the-north/#comments Thu, 02 Aug 2012 17:19:18 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=4712 The White Pass & Yukon Route – Gateway to the North is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Driving from Whitehorse in the Yukon to Fraser, B.C to climb aboard the White Pass & Yukon Route is an experience unto itself. The scenery in this region can hardly be described. Hues of blue & green with sharp contrasts of icy white and dark charcoals and black cover the rocky mountainous terrain. It’s as if a painter had only a few colours on his pallet, but somehow managed to make a masterpiece with various tones and shades. The old train parked along the tracks overlooking this natural work of art is a stark reminder that you’re still a part of civilization, even if you can only see a few dozen people.

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All Aboard the White Pass & Yukon Route

After awing over the beauty of Fraser, B.C, I boarded the train and was greeted by a friendly young train employee who happily points out the Train Engineer and the Conductor. At a cost of $135, taking the WhitePass is a great way to get to and from Skagway, Alaska and Whitehorse, Yukon. It’s worth noting that this isn’t your typical Eurorail type of train. These carts are old, and the rail line is practically ancient. While it may not be the fastest train you’ll ride, the slow pace gives you ample time to take in the breathtaking views during the ride.

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Old Sounds on an Old Train

As I acquainted myself with my seat, the train slowly began to move forward and I watched as the natural skyline began to change. My cart rocked gently back and forth, swaying to the beat of the precise heavy bass caused by the turning of the wheels. The hissing cry of metal on metal added a sense of old time flavour to the experience. The steam whistle screams and makes me jump. I laugh at myself for not expecting that. As the train passes through canyons covered in snow and ice I couldn’t help but feel as if it’s winter. It’s June 1st – practically summer – and snow in these regions are still measured in feet, rather than inches.

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A low ceiling of misty white clouds hangs over the mountains. Sleet and rain gently pour down, adding a sense of adventure to the slow moving train. Walking outside of the trailing cart I snap photos of the ever changing terrain. After passing through a few tunnels it’s clear to see we’re approaching a rainforest. Snow trades it’s place for massive trees and the temperature begins to warms up. Waterfalls and cliffs can be found every few kilometres along the rail line.

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Does a bear sh*t in the woods?

As the train curves around bends, I hang over the iron rails and snap photos. Then suddenly, as if waiting to see the train go by, a large brown bear is crouching beside the tracks. He isn’t moving, and one passenger asks “Is it real?” – as our cart is dragged a little further down the track we see the bear from another angle and quickly find out that yes, he is real, and yes bears do in fact shit in the woods. Our cart erupts in laughter as someone jokes “It’s the Charmin bear!“.

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On to Alaska

Moving slowly along cliffs and waterfalls, across old bridges and rivers, we made it to our final destination – Skagway, Alaska. While I have many thoughts and opinions on Skagway; I’ve decided to leave them be for now (separate post on that coming soon). A train with this much history and beauty along it’s path really needs to be experienced to fully understand it’s allure. You don’t have to be a train buff, history geek, or arctic explorer to enjoy the Whitepass Yukon Route. All you need are some curious eyes interested in seeing one of the most beautiful stretches of rail you can find in North America.

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The History of the White Pass & Yukon Route

The rail line between the Yukon and Alaska was built in 1898 in response to the Klondike Gold rush. Over 100,00 men & women stormed the Klondike region in hopes of striking it rich. These stampeders needed a quick way to get themselves and their gear into the region, and wealthy entrepreneurs of yesteryear tried to strike it rich by providing a futile service to the region. The single-track rail is 27.7 miles and takes you through the Norths most rugged terrain, including the Coast Mountains, Tongass National Forest & The White Pass Summit between British Columbia & Alaska, which sports a soaring elevation of 2,865 ft or 873m.

The White Pass & Yukon Route was designated an International Historic Civic Engineering Landmark in 1994, alongside such other engineering feats, including the Eiffel Tower, The Statue of Liberty and the Panama Canal.

The White Pass & Yukon Route – Gateway to the North is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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6 Vancouver Parks worth checking out this Summer http://ibackpackcanada.com/6-vancouver-parks-worth-checking-out-this-summer/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=6-vancouver-parks-worth-checking-out-this-summer http://ibackpackcanada.com/6-vancouver-parks-worth-checking-out-this-summer/#comments Wed, 18 Apr 2012 13:15:55 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=4482 6 Vancouver Parks worth checking out this Summer is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Vancouver is a city for the outdoorsy. The amount of parks, acitivities, and scenic locations you can stumble upon in a 2 hour walk will astound you. It’s no surprise that Vancouver is rated as one of the healthiest city in Canada, with the lowest obesity rates, lowest rates of heavy drinking, and the most physicians per 100,000 people. It’s so easy to participate and get outdoors. Whether that means busting out a bicycle, or strapping on your jogging shoes, there’s hardly any reason not to assimilate into this healthy behaviour. What better place to absorb a new lifestyle than in Vancouvers Parks.


cc licensed ( BY NC SD ) flickr photo shared by hynkle

Lynn Canyon

While the Capilano Suspension Bridge is more popular, it’s also $25 dollars more expensive. Save yourself some money, and the headache of falling into a bit of a “tourist trap” and check out Lynn Canyon. It’s a short drive from downtown Vancouver and is an incredible location to take in the outdoors of Vancouver. The Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge looms beautifully over trees and gives you a great view of the area.

Cross the bridge and you’ll come across Baden Powell trail, a relatively novice hike that can get you all the way down to Rice Lake. Lynn Canyon has several trails, and many places to explore, including a few secluded spots to setup picnic and even go for a swim. This location offers some beautiful photo opportunities. What better way to take in Vancouver than above a BC river & twin waterfalls.


cc licensed ( BY NC ND ) flickr photo shared by JoshNV

Seymour Demonstration Forest

Not far from Lynn Canyon, bikers, hikers, walkers and strollers grace the Demonstration Forest on a daily basis. A great getaway to stretch your legs and enjoy some outdoor activity. There’s plenty of wildlife in the area, so keep your eyes peeled. If you’re looking for a paved trail, you’ll be happy to hear the Seymour Valley Trailway is just that. But be wary, it can be the busiest trail, so if you’re looking for a little “you time” and less “get out of my way please and thank you time” you should stick to the unpaved trails.


cc licensed ( BY NC SD ) flickr photo shared by Sinéad McKeown

Grouse Mountain

Many Vancouverites tend to take their wall of mountains for granted. North Vancouver has some of the most scenic views in the city, and Grouse Mountain is no exception. While it can be a bit touristy at times, and the crowd can be a bit of a headache on weekends, if you stop by midweek on a beautiful day you’re going to be in for a treat.

Grouse Mountain is an outdoorsy mecca. Whether you’re a runner, hiker, skiier, or crazy enough to hit the Grouse Grind (a 2.9 KM hike to the top with an elevation gain of 853 meters (2,800ft) known locally as the “Stair Master”), you’re sure to find a few ways to burn a couple hundred calories here. If you’re not at your physical peak and would rather take it easy, the Gondola ride to the top, followed by the free chairlift (which gets you even higher) can offer some of the most beautiful views of the area. Best of all, they’ve got ziplining!

Expect Grouse Mountain to be a “splurge” day, as it’s definitely not cheap to do, but if you’re planning on seeing Vancouver and experiencing the outdoors it’s worth a stop!


cc licensed ( BY SD ) flickr photo shared by dmealiffe

Stanley Park

Stanley Park is probably one of my favourite spots in all of Vancouver. This massive park has a notorious ability to make you think you’ve completely left the city. With countless walkways, a swimming pool, a zoo, a bunch of awesome monuments, totem poles, and all the free room you could ask for. Stanley Park offers locals and tourists the ability to enjoy the outdoors in a budget friendly fashion. Rent a bike and explore the trails, or strap on your favourite runners and see the park from a slightly higher speed than your ordinary walker.

Hands down one of the best city parks I’ve ever been to. Stanley Park is easily worth a full day if you have the time, or a half day if you’ve got other plans nearby.


cc licensed ( BY NC ND ) flickr photo shared by rickie22

Crab Park

Crab Park is a beautiful little park located in Gastown that’s always bustling with activity. Watch as the coast guard’s hovercraft cruises by, or dream of what it must be like to be rich and famous as you watch private helicopters take off from the city. While this Crab Park isn’t really the hiker friendly park that others in this list are, it’s convenient and offers some simple walks and gorgeous views of the city. I should note that some may be put off at this park by some the locals. Gastown can be notorious for it’s wide variety of characters, so just keep a smart head on you. Though at the end of the day you have to remember Vancouver is a very friendly city, even amongst the most quirky individuals.


cc licensed ( BY ND ) flickr photo shared by WriterGal39

Queen Elizabeth Park

Another great nearby and local park worth stopping by. While it may not be for the diehard hikers, it’s easily worth a relaxing stroll. This park is filled with simple trails, the occasional tennis player and lawn bowler, and some great views of downtown Vancouver. Queen Elizabeth Park offers plenty of great photo opportunities in this park, including some friendly people and a plant conservatory. Rain or shine it’s worth a stroll!

Vancouver’s a big city with countless parks to explore. Whether they’re small and simple with a few benches and a good view, or a park that competes with the rest of the world and pushes it’s visitors to try something new and break a bit of a sweat. Taking in the outdoors as much as possible is an incredibly “Vancouver” thing to do. I’ve heard people say they could never live in a city that get’s so much rain. But when you see an entire populace simply ignore it and continue on with their day to day lives, it’s easy to feel like you could too.

Am I missing any other awesome Vancouver Parks? Would love to hear from you in the comments below!

6 Vancouver Parks worth checking out this Summer is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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My 5 Favourite Beaches in Vancouver, British Columbia http://ibackpackcanada.com/my-5-favourite-beaches-in-vancouver-british-columbia/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=my-5-favourite-beaches-in-vancouver-british-columbia http://ibackpackcanada.com/my-5-favourite-beaches-in-vancouver-british-columbia/#comments Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:59:59 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=3130 My 5 Favourite Beaches in Vancouver, British Columbia is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Vancouver has beaches. Lots of ‘em. Many people from afar tend to picture Canada as a year round frozen hell. That’s not the case, especially for Vancouver. The so called “California of the north” is filled with eager people craving to take in as much Vitamin D as they possibly can during the warm sunny months. In order to help a friend plan her upcoming trip to the west coast, I figured I should share my favourite beaches in Vancouver.


cc licensed ( BY NC SD ) flickr photo shared by MsNina

Wreck Beach

Vancouver’s Wreck Beach never ceases to make me smile. Perhaps it’s my North American upbringing that makes me giggle at the thought of hundreds of people letting the sun shine where it so rarely does. Nude beaches, they’re intriguingly fascinating. They’re by all means not common in Canada, but I’m happy they exist! While nudity is a big part of this beach, it’s technically only “clothing-optional”. There’s plenty of things to do for those scared to make that leap into letting your bits and kibbles out for the day.

Volleyball, hot dogs, guitars, smack a drum or two or take in the cool waters of the Pacific. Of coarse, there’s also a fair amount of public drinking to be had, but be careful. Beer is crazy expensive around here. So perhaps consider smuggling your own. On a warm summer day, expect the skunky smell of BC Bud to fill the air. While technically Pot is illegal in Canada, it is legal for medicinal use, and is generally tolerated by most, particularly on the west coast. Wreck Beach is a unique Vancouver experience. Just whatever you do, avoid bringing your camera out in these parts. Old timer hippies will happily bark at tourists and looky-lou’s trying to snap photos of their “freedom”.


cc licensed ( BY NC SD )  flickr photo shared by gmcmullen

Tower Beach

Tower beach isn’t your typical “paradise” looking beach. You won’t find gold sand, tanned and oiled bodies who look like they just finished a set at the gym. What you will find is rocks. Lots of them. If you plan on relaxing in these parts, bring good shoes. It may not be the comfiest beach to lounge around, but the sight of two 10-11 meter high concrete towers that overlook the Vancouver Harbour makes for neat photos.

Don’t expect much in terms of amenities. There’s no public washrooms or vendors, but there is something that can be hard to come by at the other beaches. Peace and quiet.


cc licensed ( BY NC ) flickr photo shared by Danny Ko

Spanish Banks

The Spanish Banks will always have a place in my heart. It’s hard to complain about the view. A massive view of the ocean, mountains, sky, and the sight of dozens of sail boats cruising around. Great sand, cute beach cafes, volleyball courts, and a large grassy area perfect for picnics, BBQ’s, and playing frisbee with your dog!

While it’s a little more “out of the way”, it is a great reprieve from the hustle and bustle of downtown Vancouver. In my opinion this has to be the best beach in Vancouver.


cc licensed ( BY NC ND ) flickr photo shared by russilwvong

Jericho Beach

Probably one of the best views of the North Shore mountains, Jericho Beach is far enough away to be considered quiet and family friendly. Tucked away from the Spanish Banks and Kits Beach, this little slice of heaven is perfect to get away from everything. There’s plenty of room to lounge, get your volleyball on, or setup a fancy picnic to impress that special someone. If you’re from away and checking out Jericho Beach, consider staying at the HI Jericho Beach. It’s the only beach retreat hostel in Vancouver and they know the Jericho like nobodies business.


cc licensed ( BY NC SD ) flickr photo shared by Junnn

Kitsilano Beach

Kits gets bashed a lot because of the people that hang out around here. There seems to be a ridiculous amount of good looking people in these parts. Which is quite common in Vancouver, but these particular types are sort of the “hot and I know it” variety. If you can get over the occasional douche vibe, and put your reservations aside, Kits is actually an awesome beach to check out.

Kits is an urban beach, which means it’s not going to be your typical secluded and peaceful beach. But if you can embrace the chaos, it’s widely interesting and can be a great way to spend a hot day in Vancouver. This is one of the best places in Vancouver to people watch. Frisbees, hippies, hacky sacks, girls in bikinis and high heels, guys trying to flex their way out of tshirts, cute dogs, people with hilarious burns, people with great tans, and best of all: It’s all surrounded in the beautiful scenery of mountains, ocean, and the city!

Boom! So that sums up my favourite 5 beaches in the beautiful city of Vancouver. Beaches are synonymous with summer in Canada, and you’d have to be a full on crazy not to take advantage of them during our short but hot summer months. While summer may be a good month or two away from fully kicking in, it’s good to be prepared. Bring you sunscreen, a towel, and a few friends and find out why Vancouver is so consistently rated as one of the best cities in Canada.

Map of Vancouver’s Beaches

 

My 5 Favourite Beaches in Vancouver, British Columbia is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Horseback Riding in Prince Albert National Park with Sturgeon River Ranch [Photo Essay] http://ibackpackcanada.com/horseback-riding-prince-albert-national-park-sturgeon-river-ranch-photo-essay/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=horseback-riding-prince-albert-national-park-sturgeon-river-ranch-photo-essay http://ibackpackcanada.com/horseback-riding-prince-albert-national-park-sturgeon-river-ranch-photo-essay/#comments Thu, 08 Dec 2011 14:50:41 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=3748 Horseback Riding in Prince Albert National Park with Sturgeon River Ranch [Photo Essay] is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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If you’re from Saskatchewan, chances are there’s a little cowboy running through your blood. Be it the whimsical nature that we seem to have when it comes to long road trips (ie “It’s only an 8 hour drive, easy as pie!), or the general love affair most prairie folk seem to have with country music. Everyone from this little prairie province loves to claim they’re a little more cowboy than the next guy or gal. You wouldn’t believe how many arguments I’ve heard where people are arguing who’s hometown is smaller. No matter how cowboy you might think you are, chances are you’re not even playing in the same league as Gord Vaadeland, owner and operator of Sturgeon River Ranch.

This past Thanksgiving was hands down one of the most memorable I’ve ever had. I convinced my old man to take some time off work and join me up north for some fall horseback riding in the boreal forest. The goal was to catch sight of the 400+ free range plains bison that roam Prince Albert National Park. Little did we know how close we’d end up getting.

These brick-walls of beasts have had a tough go, yet despite their near extinction, they seem to be thriving in Prince Albert National Park since their re-introduction in 1969. They’ve come a long way since the first 50 were brought back. That’s partly due to the preservation efforts of Gord Vaadeland, Founder and Executive Director of the Sturgeon River Plains Bison Stewards. That’s only one of his gigs, he’s also the ED of CPAWS-SK and Watershed Awareness Coordinator for Provincial Council of Agriculture Development and Diversification. Say that 3 times fast… (Can’t be done!)

I got in contact with Gord while I was still in Halifax and asked if he’d be keen on showing me around his parts. He gladly obliged, and within weeks we had a unique tour of the area setup, which included Horseback Riding the western part of Prince Albert National Park in search of the bison, and sleeping in a traditionally built tipi at Ness Creek.

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A short 6 hour drive from Regina got us near Big River Saskatchewan. We pulled into Sturgeon River Ranch and were finally introduced to Gord. I soon learned that his skills extended beyond being an outfitter, a cowboy, and a bison steward. Turns out he’s also a bluegrass musician, and a bit of a TV Celebrity (What’s up Mantracker!?). We all hit it off and it wasn’t long before we had the horses in the trailer and ready to roll.

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Welcome to Prince Albert National Park

We pulled up to the edge of Prince Albert National Park and saddled up. It’d been a couple years since I’d ridden horse, but I managed to shake the cobwebs after the first mile or so. Gord led us through trails that wove through birch and spruce, our horses powered through the thick. Watching Gord lead us slowpokes, I couldn’t help but think “Shoulda found a cowboy hat!”. That thought was interupted as I was forced to dodge a low hanging branch. I chuckled to myself, “Keep cool Corbin, pay attention…”

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Our horses began to slow down, and suddenly became a bit nervous. You could feel the tension in the air. These horses knew something was up a ways. We all stopped in our tracks. A gentle breeze blew through the trees, the sound of rubbing leather mixed with the loud breathe of the horses made that moment feel like it lasted a lifetime. Gord whispered “They’re up there. You hear that?”. Large crunching snaps echo’d back our way.

Gord Vaadeland - Sturgeon River Ranch

We slowly pressed on, nobody said a word. We didn’t know if we’d get a second chance to spot the bison up ahead. As we continued through the trail, the bush got thicker. Gord lead us in the direction of the breaking trees. We slowed down again, and Gord explained “We usually recommend people keep a safe distance from the bison. If you can cover them with your thumb, you’re close enough. But since you’re with me, we’ll be using our elbows and putting that thumb a little closer to your face, which means we’ll be getting a bit closer. Hope that’s okay!” I nodded my head with a huge smile “Of course!”.

Wild Free Range Bison Saskatchewan Prince Albert

Spotting the Wild Plains Bison

The sound of snapping trees got louder, but the bush was so thick you could hardly tell how close you were. Gord offered to hang onto our horses to see if we can get a clear photo. I climbed off Applejack (a trustworthy steed if I may say so) and nervously moved toward the sound of wild bison. My old man was right behind. Creeping towards the bison soon became a game of “Oh yea? I dare you to keep going!” I’d take one step, my Dad would take two. Soon we were lookin in the eyes of at least eight free ranging plains bison (there may have been dozens more behind them). We couldn’t have been more than 30 feet away from the small herd.

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A final tree snap stopped me dead in my tracks. I looked at my old man and made eye contact, implying “If they move, I’m so out!” Several grunts and loud thumps on the ground forced me to take a step back. Then two. I looked up and blue skies and birch trees surrounded us, making a fast escape nearly impossible. Their noises progressively got louder, and I decided I had enough of playing chicken with thousand pound bisons. Another grunt & crack, and I was out! “Only gotta be faster than the guy behind you” I remember hearing. We laughed as we got back to our horses, blown away with what we’d just done. Needless to say my Dad gave me a hard time for backing out before him.

I was completely speechless as I tried to thank Gord. “Awesome. Wow!”. He laughed and said “I didn’t realize how close you guys were!”. He laughed as he handed us back our reins. Had that been anyone else I’m sure he would have Clint Eastwood stared us so bad for getting that close. But Gord seemed to trust us. Nothing like having a cowboy on your side!

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Long Meadow – Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan

We pushed forward, following a few rough trails. Gord warmly told us about the history of the bison and shared some of the incredible preservation work being done with bison. This man is clearly passionate about his work. Who else but a Saskatchewan Patriot would come out on Thanksgiving Day to show a couple outta-towners around. As the conversation died down, the scenery opened up. A natural clearing called “Long Meadow” greeted us.

Horseback riding prince albert national park moose antlers

It was a breathe of fresh air to see the flatlands again and to set my eyes on the big blue sky. As we entered the meadow a White-tail deer skipped back into the cover of the trees. We followed Gord and picked up our pace. Just a few prairie boys wandering the land by horse. We stopped a mile or two up the meadow as Gord pointed out some moose antlers. A mile up and he stops to point out another sign of wildlife. The remains of a bison.

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Bison Remains

He explained what makes Prince Albert National Park so different from all the rest with one word. “Predation.” There’s a couple wolf packs in the area that hunt the weak, injured, and the old. It’s a common sight in the park. It’s pretty wild to think that something could actually take a bison out.

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We stopped for lunch in the middle of Long Meadow and Gord continued to share stories. The mans got a bunch, but you’ll have to book him yourself to hear them all. The horses fueled up on wild grass while we gorged on sandwiches and some of the best home made cookies I’ve ever had. Then it was back in the saddle.

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Another herd of Bison

A few miles up we had our second encounter with another small herd of bison. Once again they were hidden in the trees. If my camera had a fist, it would have been shaking it vigorously at them. I wanted to see them in the wide open, but I suppose it wasn’t meant to be! More the reason to come back again!

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It was coming on the 5th hour of riding, and the sun was just beginning to set. We had one last leg of trails to hit before calling it a day. We found our way onto a rough dirt road. Gord explained that a lot of these roads were actually started by the Bison. When people started showing up in the area, they picked up where the bison left off and turned the rough trails into drive-able roads.

Stoney Plain Meadow Prince Albert National Park

Stoney Plain Meadow – Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan

Our fearless leader wandered into rougher terrain. Steep hills and fast slopes was the name of the game. Rocks, trees, and the odd patch of mud reminded our horses not to stumble. The horses pulled through with ease, and we soon found ourselves on top of a hill, overlooking Stoney Plain Meadow. Gord pointed out where his family’s land was and we enjoyed the start of sunset. Good company, great ride, and one helluva view. The definition of a great way to end the day!

Sturgeon River Ranch, Saskatchewan

Back at Sturgeon River Ranch

We loaded up the horses and dropped them off at Sturgeon River Ranch. I bid farewell to my new four legged friend Applejack and thanked Gord for sharing his wealth of expertise. He gave us directions to Ness Creek and said he’d meet up with us shortly. We drove 20 minutes on gravel roads and eventually found the right road.

Ness Creek Awaits

As we pulled into the Ness Creek grounds, you could see that it was a place for artists, free thinkers, and eco-friendly community leaders. The craftsmanship in everything from the signs, to the cabins, to the pieces of outdoor art located throughout the grounds make you stop and think “I wish I did more stuff like this!”

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We turned the bend and saw our accommodations for the night. Standing in the middle of a field was a traditionally built dakota tipi. The wooden poles pierced the orange sky, a light breeze blew the doorway gently. I stopped in my tracks to stand and take it all in before snapping a photo. Wild bison, a full day of riding in the boreal forest, and now a night under the stars. I thought to myself “I have this moment to be thankful for.”

Big thanks goes out to Gord & the Gang at Ness Creek for showing me around their little slice of heaven. If you want to see more wildlife photos be sure to check out the Bison Stewards Facebook Page. Same goes with the Sturgeon River Ranch Facebook page! Stay tuned for an upcoming post on Ness Creek, in the mean time, check out Gord Vaadeland’s appearance in Mantracker.

Horseback Riding in Prince Albert National Park with Sturgeon River Ranch [Photo Essay] is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Relax in the Little Resort Town of Manitou Beach, Saskatchewan http://ibackpackcanada.com/relax-in-the-little-resort-town-of-manitou-beach-saskatchewan/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=relax-in-the-little-resort-town-of-manitou-beach-saskatchewan http://ibackpackcanada.com/relax-in-the-little-resort-town-of-manitou-beach-saskatchewan/#comments Thu, 01 Dec 2011 13:35:01 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=3724 Relax in the Little Resort Town of Manitou Beach, Saskatchewan is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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In the 1800′s, First nations tribes were being wiped out at an alarming rate by the european settlers. War, disease, and famine were tearing apart an entire civilization. For most of those who came down with smallpox, death followed soon thereafter. However, there were exceptions. According to the local stories, there was once an Assiniboine tribe who had several tribe members come down with smallpox. They somehow came upon Little Manitou Lake, and after drinking and bathing in the healing mineral waters, were completely cured from this disease. Stories eventually spread of this little Saskatchewan wonder. People from all over the country were coming to check it out, it wasn’t long before development began in the area.

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Studies were eventually done on the water in Little Manitou Lake. They discovered several things. The water in this lake is 5 times more saline than the ocean, making it almost half as dense as the Dead Sea. In total, the gravity of Little Manitou Lake’s water is 1.06, which allows for some incredibly easy floating, even for you non-swimmers.

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On my recent travels throughout Saskatchewan I was driving towards Saskatoon but was being completely thrown off schedule with a sudden rainstorm. The storm had gotten to the point where driving was beginning to get dangerous. It was my intention to check out Little Manitou Lake anyways, but I wasn’t sure exactly for how long, nor what I’d find. As I pulled into town I realized there was enough to see and do in town to warrant taking a half day off driving, and hope for the rain to pass.

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Little Manitou Lake, Saskatchewan

I drove through the small town of Watrous (5km from Manitou Beach) & made my way slowly down the hills towards Manitou Beach, one of Saskatchewans oldest and most unique resort towns. As I parked my vehicle, I casually strolled towards the sandy beach. The wind and rain made for thousands of small waves covering the entire lake. Grey skies were all around, yet despite the lack of colour, the area was still beautiful. Foam caused from the crashing waves and salt water algae covered parts of the beach. Despite the cold weather & occasional burst of rain, I removed my shoes and socks and dipped my feet in.

Pins and needles soon forced me to get out of the frigid waters to seek warmth. I figured I could find that up the road so I proceeded to walk. The rain picked up again, and it was then that I realized that my rain jacket wasn’t nearly as waterproof as it was supposed to be. I was soaked to the bone. Thankfully my camera was protected in its bag, but I didn’t have that luxury. I made my way around around a couple bends in the road and then suddenly the rain stopped. As I turned one last bend I saw it. Danceland, Home of the world famous dance floor built on horse hair.

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Danceland, Home of the World Famous Dance Floor Built on Horse Hair

I wasn’t sure if they’d be open, but I saw one vehicle parked near the hall and hoped it was one of the owners. I strolled up with camera in hand, and gently pushed the creeking screen door open. It was pretty dark inside the dancehall. Concerned I might be breaking and entering, I warmly called out “Hello?”… Out of the kitchen came both of the owners. Arnold and Millie Strueby introduced themselves and were happy to show me around. Within minutes we were talking about the history of Danceland.

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The first dancehall was built in 1919, then rebuilt as “Danceland” in 1928 as one of the first dance floors built on top of horse hair. I was completely lost about this whole Horse Hair shenanigans, thankfully the Strueby’s explained its purpose. Dancers can apparently go for hours without getting sore due to the bounce caused by the horse hair. They say when the dancehall is full you can actually see the floor bounce. Danceland still uses the original 5,000 square foot maple hardwood floor that was installed in 1929.

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There has been countless owners throughout its history, and a huge variety of acts have played on stage at Danceland, including Wilf Carter, Don Messer, Bobby Gimby, Mart Kenny, and my personal favourite, the Inkspots. Back in those days it was common to get big names in town. At the time there was nothing like Manitou Beach, and trains were coming in and out of town bringing in loads of people.

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Despite its age, Danceland has this jaw dropping feel about it all. You can’t help but stare in amazement at the structure of the building. Everything from the lights, to the beams, to the sheer size of the building, you can’t help but smile. Danceland continues to operate to this day. They’re open year round, with dances on Friday and Saturday, followed by Gospel shows on Sunday. There’s buffets, weddings, social events, you name it! It’s a pretty wild little Saskatchewan gem, and stepping onto that Horse Hair infused floor, you can’t help but want to shake and jive.

I said farewell to the owners who encouraged me to warm up in the Manitou Springs Spa. It was still drizzling outside so I figured “What the hey! Why not?”

The Manitou Springs Spa & Resort

I grabbed my swim trunks from the car and wandered into the Manitou Springs Spa. I decided I’d pass on the swedish stone massages and facials, and just skip right to floating in the mineral rich waters. As I finished changing I realized I probably shouldn’t be creeping about a spa with a camera in hand. I can’t imagine I’d get anything but strange looks from people, and who wants to get kicked out into the rain. I decided it was safer to lock up my gear and just relax.

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After a quick shower, I slowly eased myself into the hot and murky lake fed mineral waters. There was maybe 12 other people in the pools, and I was quite visibly the only person below 55. I laughed it off and decided to give this whole floating gig a try. I dunked my entire body, and within micro-seconds I bounced back up. It was like swimming in a new breed of water. I felt alien, light, almost hollow. This 1.06 gravity thing was completely blowing my mind. I spun onto my back and let the water do all the work. Heal me water, heal me good!

What’s in the mineral water?
Grams per Gallon

  • Magnesium Sulfate – 308.38
  • Magnesium Bicarbonate – 63.42
  • Sodium Sulphate – 50.92
  • Potassium Sulphate – 116.62
  • Sodium Chloride – 1405.60
  • Calcium Sulphate – 104.96
  • Oxide of Iron & Aluminum – 0.28
  • Silica – 0.69

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After almost two hours of floating I was a mineral infused prune. I wandered out of the water and decided I had to risk it. I needed a picture. I unlocked my gear, and did a dash. As I entered the pool area with a camera I got one weird glance, but nobody else seemed to notice. I quickly snapped, and realized my camera was fogging up like crazy. I had to hope for the best that one of three photos would look okay.

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As I left the Spa I felt like a new man. I was completely relaxed, stress free, and ready to hit the road to continue my journey throughout Saskatchewan. Manitou Beach is one of those strange aging gems in Saskatchewan. It might not be as popular as it was back in the day, but there is still plenty going on in the area. If you’re heading north from Regina to Saskatoon, you’d be crazy not to stop and check it out.

 

For more information on Manitou Beach check out The Watrous Manitou Website.

 

Relax in the Little Resort Town of Manitou Beach, Saskatchewan is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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6 Reasons You Should Visit Wanuskewin Heritage Park in Saskatchewan http://ibackpackcanada.com/6-reasons-you-should-visit-wanuskewin-heritage-park-in-saskatchewan/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=6-reasons-you-should-visit-wanuskewin-heritage-park-in-saskatchewan http://ibackpackcanada.com/6-reasons-you-should-visit-wanuskewin-heritage-park-in-saskatchewan/#comments Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:28:10 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=3686 6 Reasons You Should Visit Wanuskewin Heritage Park in Saskatchewan is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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I’ve always had a fascination with history. I suppose I have my folks to thank for that. They always made an effort to stop at every historical point of interest during family road trips. As kids, my folks would have my siblings and I read the signs that would explain where we were, and what we were looking at. I’m sure as little snots we didn’t seem all that interested, but somewhere along the road to “adulthood” this interest of theirs must have buried its way into my own behaviour. While this fascination may not have transfered so well in text books & school, to this day, I still love seeing, breathing, and experiencing the history of a region. On a recent road trip through the Saskatoon area I looked up an old childhood friend and decided to check out Wanuskewin, a Heritage Park dedicated to First Nations history in Saskatchewan. Along the way I came up with 6 reasons you should visit Wanuskewin Heritage Park.

1. The Wanuskewin Restaurante – First Nations Food with a Modern Twist

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One of the first things you’ll notice as you walk into the Visitor Centre is the clean and beautiful decor of the building. However, you’ll soon be distracted by the second thing you’ll notice. The food! The Wanuskewin Heritage Park has it’s very own restaurante which serves an assortment of traditional and non traditional first nations food. They serve everything from Rabbit Stew, to Wild Rice Salads, or if you want to play it safe, try their incredibly delicious Bison Burger. But don’t forget to order a plate of Bannock to spread an unhealthy amount of butter and jam on. What better way to start a hike & a tour than on a full stomach.

2. The Historical First Nations Artifacts & Art Pieces

First Nations Artifacts Saskatchewan Wanuskewin

The museum & gallery in the Visitor Center of Wanuskewin has a variety of beautiful and incredibly fragile pelts. The art and craftsmanship that went into every day to day item used by the First Nations people is astounding. Each item has this strange ability to take you back to a time when these items were necessary for survival. When these historical items were designed and built, I’m sure the First Nations had no idea they would end up on display. They were tools, yet here they are behaving very similar to how I see the art hanging on the walls. It’s easy to forget there’s more to Wanuskewin than old items & ornate pieces of first nations art.

3. The Bison Pounds

Buffalo Pound Saskatchewan Wanuskewin

It’s been long known in the First Nations community that Wanuskewin was a place of gathering and of spiritual healing. In the 1980′s archeologists began to confirm these findings with a multitude of incredible finds. One of my personal favourites was the remnants of several Bison Pounds. A Bison Pound is essentially a wooden gate that First nations hunters would use to hunt bison with. Thousands upon thousands of wild bison would stampede, and upon seeing these wooden gates, would be confused and disoriented. In an attempt to go around these blockades they would be guided to their fate at the bottom of a Buffalo Jump. I don’t care how many animals you’ve skinned, even the bravest warrior had to have been scared trying to herd stampeding buffalo off a cliff.

4. The Traditionally Built Tipis

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Wanuskewin has several large tipis errected around the park which allow visitors to see what it would have been like to live in one. They’re an incredible piece of human ingenuity. Knowing that the tradition and knowledge of how to build Tipis has been preserved and handed down throughout the years, despite the pain and suffering the First Nations have gone through, is heart warming. If you plan your visit to Wanuskewin appropriately, you can actually get the opportunity to watch an elder setup a tipi as well.

 5. The Trails to Archaeological Finds

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There are 4 very scenic trails you can take as you exit the Wanuskewin Visitor Center; however, if you have an extra couple of hours in your day I highly recommend doing them all. They can easily be done as long as you’re in relatively good shape. I confess I did have sore legs after the entire hike; but nothing I wasn’t able to walk off. The scenic trails include

“The Trail of Discovery”

which takes you from the ampitheatre to the first bison pound and the Tipi Village. As you continue uphill, you’re given a scenic panorama of the Opimihaw Creek which includes seeing almost the entire Wanuskewin Park. As you finish the Trail of Discovery you’re able to connect to the “Path of the People” for a few minutes, which then turns into the “Trail of the Bison” (My personal favourite) as you climb uphill in an eastern direction.

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“The Trail of the Bison”

On the “Trail of the Bison” you’ll see this massive Bison Rubbing Stone along with some of the most beautiful grasslands. Further on you’ll see several small cliffs that drop down to the Saskatchewan River. The vista at the top of this trail is breathtaking to say the least. The prairie harsh winds make it difficult to stay up there long, but the view is second to none. As you loop around the “Trail of the Bison” you’ll reconnect with the Path of the People.

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“The Path of the People”

This path gives you the opportunity to explore the lush vegetation along the Opimihaw Creek and take in the dry valley walls. This leads eventually to the Juniper Flats, a dry desert like area that seems oddly foreign after walking through the flatlands then a lush wetland. The Path of the People eventually leads to the “Circle of Harmony”

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“The Circle of Harmony”

This particular trail leads to some incredible archeological finds and some more great views of the area. Expect to find a tipi ring, a medicine wheel, and another bison pound. There’s a very interesting history behind the tipi rings and medicine wheel (or sacred hoop). If you’re really into the spiritual side of history, this will no doubt be a great place to stop and absorb your surroundings.

6. First Nations Hoop Dancers

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As you finish the last of the trails you’ll no doubt be aching to sit down for a bit, which gives you the perfect opportunity to learn about and witness the famous First Nations Hoop Dance. This dance is incredibly old, and has been past down from generation to generation. The skill and finess behind it is simply amazing, words really don’t do it justice. If you’re brave enough the kind dancers will even show you some of the basics.

Have you ever been to Wanuskewin? Leave your thoughts in the comments below!

For more information on Wanuskewin be sure to check out their website!

6 Reasons You Should Visit Wanuskewin Heritage Park in Saskatchewan is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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