I Backpack Canada » Activities http://ibackpackcanada.com A backpackers travel guide to Canada Fri, 15 Mar 2013 14:45:15 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5 Getting Screeched In at Twillingate’s Anchor Inn http://ibackpackcanada.com/getting-screeched-in-at-twillingates-anchor-inn/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=getting-screeched-in-at-twillingates-anchor-inn http://ibackpackcanada.com/getting-screeched-in-at-twillingates-anchor-inn/#comments Wed, 07 Nov 2012 13:46:09 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5448 Getting Screeched In at Twillingate’s Anchor Inn is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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What is screech? And what exactly is a screech in? And what’s the procedure? Well, having gone through the Screech In process, I can proudly tell you all about it! I was recently in the gorgeous small town of Twillingate, the infamous small port town in North Central Newfoundland. It was there, with the help of Candice, a true blue Newfoundlander, and Riley of Riles for Miles, that I became an honourary Newfoundlander. Let’s start from the top!

cc licensed ( BY ) flickr photo shared by gLangille

What is Screech?

I’ve heard stories about it’s origins, my favourite being that way back, when the cod fisheries were still a lively part of Newfoundland, the Newfoundlanders would trade their skunky gross cod to Jamaicans, while Jamaicans, would trade their skunky gross Rum. Both thought they were getting a helluva deal, thinking “We’ve just scored some exotic Rum or Fish“. Needless to say, they were both giving eachother the shaft.

Hypothetical history aside, Screech is very strong, often strong tasting rum. While it was originally conjured up in the Jamaican islands, it’s now produced locally in Newfoundland, and served with everything from 5 star meals, to ice cream, and of course, to show CFA’s (Come from aways) how strong & prominent the Newfoundland drinking culture is.

The taste of screech has changed significantly in the past years and is now considered a sought after rum in the rum drinking scene. So keep an eye out for it at your local liquor stores.

But what is a Screech In?

The Screech In is a Newfoundland custom, whereby local Newfoundlanders encourage those not from Newfoundland to become an honourary Newfoundlander. The steps for a screech in vary from place to place, but the typical way goes as such:

  1. The Screecher Inner asks the CFA (Come From Away) ”Is ye an honorary Newfoundlander?
  2. The CFA replies “Deed I is me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw!
  3. CFA hammers back a shot of Screech
  4. CFA kisses a slimy cod fish on the mouth
  5. CFA Receives a certificate indicating he or she is an honourary Newfoundlander.

The process reminds me a bit of the Sourtoe Cocktail, only with a little more of a party culture surrounding the process. Screech in’s typically finalize with a few (or a dozen) more drinks, lots of cheering, and a bit of a headache the following morning.

screech-in-certificate-newfoundland

Getting Screeched in at Twillingates Anchor Inn

While many have the screech in ceremony performed in St Johns, we were given the opportunity to have the ceremony performed somewhere a little more small, a lot more quaint, and in a true blue old fashioned kitchen party. The city & region surrounding Twillingate is simply stunning. Tourists from all over the world visit these parts in search of icebergs, picturesque panoramas of the Newfoundland seaside, and to experience the warm & welcoming culture that encompasses every Newfoundlander to the core. I had spent days thinking about the screech in and how it would happen, but something I hadn’t even considered was how much I would fall in love with the place I was to be made an “Honourary Newfoundlander”.

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Enjoying a Newfoundland Brewis & Scrunchions

Delicious Food at the Anchor Inn

After enjoying a delicious meal at the Anchor Inn, we proceeded downstairs to the Pub, where local musician Karen Churchill was putting on a bit of a shindig. Walking into the kitchen party, we noticed that we were by far the youngest people at the kitchen party. Most were well into their 40s, 50s, and 60s, while were were considered the youngin’s in our mid 20s. One might think that we’d be ostrasized from the baby-boomer party-goers, but rather, they embraced us with open arms and practically shoved insturments in our hands.

We were handed a wood clacker, a tamborine, and an ugly stick. What is an ugly stick you may ask? Well, it’s a Newfoundland instrument, made up of an old mop, a bunch of jangling beer bottle caps, a couple old soup or tomato cats, and stick to beat said ugly stick with to produce noise. While rocking out to the awesome Newfoundland folk tunes of Karen Churchill we were slamming back some tasty Newfoundland beers like they were going out of style.

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Rocking out with Karen Churchill at Twillingates Famous Kitchen Party

The Twillingate Kitchen Party

After my 12th beer, my liquid confidence meter had been filled, and I proudly accepted an invite from Karen Churchill to rock out with her on the small little stage in the corner. I grabbed the acoustic guitar, and followed the lead of the local legend herself, rocking out while she was on the banjo. It was an experience that I’ll never forget!

What might have been a few beers later, the official designated Screecher Inner showed up on stage in full yellow mariner weather suit with a slimy frozen cod fish and a bottle of Screech. Shots were poured as the CFA’s lined up in front of the kitchen party. Riley, myself, and a couple from Quebec nervously awaited the shot that is meant to be feared so much. We stood wobbly, and announced in a slurred fashion “deed I have me old cock” – “No no no!” the Screecher Inner announced. “Did I is my ol’ cock, everyone start all over“. A back and forth of misprounced Newfoundland english went on until finally we all nailed it. ”Deed I is me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw”. We hammered our shot of Screech, kissed a slimy cod, and laughed as a crowd of cheers erupted the small hall of the Anchor Inn hotel.

A trip to Canada wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Central Newfoundland to see & experience this quirky tradition.

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Beautiful Newfoundland

The screech in has been criticized by some as being a terrible thing, some sort of monstrous atrocity that Newfoundlanders should be ashamed of. To that I simply say “Psssh!” You can’t fight a tradition that fun! Embracing the quirky and often times humourous parts of your culture is the best way of showing a CFA a good time. The entire ceremony is done tongue and cheek, and nobody is forced to participate. It’s this type of custom that people will go home telling friends and family, which will no doubt encourage many more to visit the province of Newfoundland & Labrador and experience this initiation themselves. Harmless fun with some of the friendliest people in Canada. What more could you ask for?

Special thanks to the folks at Adventure Central Newfoundland for the help arranging the trip. Extra big thanks & a high five goes out to Karen Churchill for the awesome performance and the warm & friendly staff at the beautiful & cozy Anchor Inn Hotel & Suites.

Getting Screeched In at Twillingate’s Anchor Inn is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Fogo Island – A Paradise of Newfoundland Sights http://ibackpackcanada.com/fogo-island-a-paradise-of-newfoundland-sights/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=fogo-island-a-paradise-of-newfoundland-sights http://ibackpackcanada.com/fogo-island-a-paradise-of-newfoundland-sights/#comments Tue, 06 Nov 2012 12:06:29 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5421 Fogo Island – A Paradise of Newfoundland Sights is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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When most picture Newfoundland, pictures of colourful houses, scenic downtown vistas overlooking the St Johns harbour, and perhaps the blur that George Street leaves in most visitors minds, long after leaving. While St Johns is no doubt a beautiful city, it is such a small piece of the mosaic of sounds, cultures, and experiences that Newfoundland has to offer. You’d have to be crazy not to get out of town and see what else is out there. On my recent trip to Newfoundland this September, I was exposed to some of the most remote parts of Canada’s most easterly province. To say they were awe-inspiring might be the biggest understatement of the century.

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Fogo Island

The blowing wind cutting through sharp jagged rocks, a sea of colours overwhelming your vision as you strain to keep your eyes open at what is one of the most picturesque destinations in all of Newfoundland. This small rural island is home to  some 2,500 residents, and due to its small size and seclusion from the rest of Newfoundland, their local culture and lifestyle has remained in tact. Ferry’s leave daily from Farewell. Be sure to take in the views from the upper deck of the Captain Earl W. Winsor. The comfort & views aboard this ferry are comparable to many cruise ships. So be sure to have you camera ready!

After an hour on the island, you’ll soon realize why Fogo Island is fast becoming one of the most sought after destinations in Newfoundland. Fogo Island is also famous for it’s appearance in the award winning Newfoundland & Labrador tourism videos, the rugged beauty of this island is simply astounding.

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Fogo Island Artist in Residence Studios

Driving throughout the island, you may catch sight of a slab of architecture that you simply can’t quite figure out. It certainly isn’t historical, yet, it feels natural. It’s as if an alien life form dropped a monolith in the middle of the rugged outdoor beauty. You’ll find these strange buildings all over the island. No, you’re not in 2001: A Space Odyssey and no, you’re certainly not seeing things.

Zita Cobb, a self-made millionaire who came from Fogo Island, recently returned to her home to help encourage artists to continue their passion in whatever form of art that fancies them. Rather than simply creating a scholarship, she had these truly mind boggling artist retreats built throughout the island. Artists have the ability to work in what might be one of the most beautiful places on earth. This unique take on an artist-in-residence has sparked interest around the world, and Zita is being given praise for providing jobs, and giving people many reasons to return to Fogo Island.

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A Hikers Island

If you fancy yourself an outdoorsy type of individual, Fogo Island can deliver. Between The Lions Den Trail, The Fogo Head Trail, The Brimstone Head Trail, or The Turpin’s Trail, there’s something for just about everyone. While the trails aren’t nearly as difficult as some you’ll find on the main island of Newfoundland, the scenic panoramas that each provides will surely explore your mind into thousands of pieces. Needless to say, bring a camera!

I’ve always heard that Newfoundlanders are some of the friendliest people in the world. The residents of Fogo Island hold true to that title and will go out of their way to ensure every CFA (Come from Away) feels at home. Sunsets, seafood, unique architecture, jawdropping landscapes, and a salty sea breeze – this island in Central Newfoundland is the epitome of Newfoundland culture.

Check out The Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism website for more information on Fogo Island. There’s some fantastic videos that will likely have you looking up flights & car rentals in no time!

Special thanks to the folks at Adventure Central Newfoundland for helping arrange this trip with Candice of Candice does the World & Riley of Riles For Miles!

 

Fogo Island – A Paradise of Newfoundland Sights is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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How to Become an Honourary Newfoundlander in 5 Days http://ibackpackcanada.com/how-to-become-an-honourary-newfoundlander-in-5-days/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-become-an-honourary-newfoundlander-in-5-days http://ibackpackcanada.com/how-to-become-an-honourary-newfoundlander-in-5-days/#comments Wed, 31 Oct 2012 13:10:39 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5352 How to Become an Honourary Newfoundlander in 5 Days is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Newfoundland tends to be a difficult name for many to pronounce, but once mastered, you can’t help but want to say it as often as possible. Newfoundland (pronounced New•fun•LAND – with extra emphasis on the ‘LAND’) is Canada’s most eastern province, chalk full of incredible seafood, maritimes culture, and some curiosities you simply can’t find elsewhere in this great nation. I had the opportunity to explore Newfoundland and some of its many picturesque islands in Central Newfoundland with a born and bred Newfoundlander, Candice Walsh of Candice Does The World, alongside my newfound travel companion, Riley Platt of Riles for Miles. Together, Riley and I were going to find out straight from the horses mouth (aka Candice’s mouth), what it truly takes to become an Honourary Newfoundlander in 5 days.

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1. Eat Cod Tongues

While most pubs across North America are all but too happy to serve you french fries, sweet potato fries, or even some chicken wings – out east in Newfoundland, they accompany their beers with something a little different. Who wants those gosh darn salted potatoes when there’s giant cod tongues just begging to be battered and deep fried to perfection. Yes, Cod Fish do in fact have tongues, and I can attest that they’re larger than you’d imagine. Cod tongues are roughly the size of a adult human male’s big toe, squashed down to tongue shape.

One might think that a big slimy atlantic Cod fish’s tongue would taste a bit off, but hand over heart, they were deeeeeeeelish. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, spiced to perfection and the perfect complimentary snack to go alongside an ice cold Newfoundland Beer. I hope their quirky pub grub makes it off the island, because I have been craving to pop some more of those tasty Cod tongues back in my mouth.

quidi vidi beer newfoundland

2. Drink Newfoundland Beer, then drink some more

Newfoundlanders drink the most beer per capita in all of Canada. Perhaps it’s the sporatic weather that changes on a whim, or the fact that they have a wide variety of beer to choose from. Dominion, Jockey Club, India, Blue Star, Black Horse,  While some might complain that all of the local Newfoundland beer have been bought up by the big boys (Labatts, Molson, etc), served cold, there’s worse things to drink.


Local Newfoundland Beer

Beer afficianados will rejoice though, as there is still three local Newfoundland Beers you can sample on the island. I’m speaking of none other than Quidi Vidi Brewing Company, Yellowbelly Brewery, and Storm Brewing. While you’re much more likely to find Quidi Vidi throughout the island, any of the larger liquor stores will carry both Yellowbelly & Storm.


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3. Hike to the Edge of the World

One of the coolest hikes you can possibly do, particularly for bragging rights & the stunning vistas, is the Brimstone Head hike on Fogo Island. According to the Flat Earth Society, a slightly kooky bunch who promote all things Flat Earth related, Brimstone Head is one of the four corners of the “Flat Earth”. Whether or not you are a flat earther or a “rounder”, the hike is absolutely breathtaking. Sharp cliffs, pounding waves, strong winds, and a stunning panorama of Fogo Island. It’s a fairly easy hike, and definitely worth it. If you’re curious about the Flat Earth Society I recommend reading Man on the Lam’s post. It’ll give you a couple chuckles.

Be sure to dress appropriately on these hikes. I highly recommend bringing a rain jacket at the very least. After all, it’s Newfoundland. One of the few places where you can experience every season in a day.

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4. Rock out at a Kitchen Party

We were fortunate enough to get to visit the small town of Twillingate, made famous in the Newfoundland Folk Song, “I’s the b’y“. Driving into town, we blasted the song on the car stereo, as we pulled into the Anchor Inn, a cute little hotel with a fantastic restaurant, a pub, and a weekly kitchen party, which just so happened to be taking place the night we pulled into town.

After a few warm-up drinks at the Anchor Inn restaurant, we made our way down to the pub and pulled into a kitchen party. Despite being 20-30 years younger than most at the party, we were committed to having a time. We filled our table up with beer, grabbed an ugly stick, a wood clacker, and rocked out. After my 10th beer I had enough liquid confidence to hollar up to Karen Churchill, the host of the Twillingate Kitchen Party, and happily informed her that I was eager to back her up with some guitar. She invited me on stage and next thing I know it I’m rocking out on stage, having the time of my life.

screeched in

5. Get Screeched In

This is the official “Become an Honourary Newfoundlander” tradition that has been taking place for years, with the help of a tremendous amount of alcohol. In order to get screeched in the willing participant has to reply to the epic question, “Is ye an honorary Newfoundlander?” with the phrase, “‘deed I is me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw.” The ceremony continues as you’re asked to kiss a Cod fish, followed by taking a shot of Screech. What is screech you might ask? Very strong, and very nasty rum. This is usually done in front of a crowd, and accompanied by several more pints and some heavy amounts of laughter. Sort of like the Sourtoe Cocktail, only more fishy. You’re given a certificate at the end to brag to your friends & family about how awesome you are.

I got screeched in at the Kitchen Party in Twillingate, but many insist the best place to get screeched in is at Kristians in St Johns, Newfoundland.

6. A night on George Street

George Street isn’t just famous in Newfoundland, but across all of Canada as being the street that makes St Johns the city with the most Pubs & Bars per capita than any other city in Canada. The Newfoundlander’s know how to party, and a night on George Street will show you exactly how much. People pour out of bar after bar, jumping from dance clubs to pubs to greasy spoons, all in the name of a good time. Cheap drinks, greasy food, one of the liveliest atmospheres mixed with people speaking with their nearly indecipherable accents, and all I can say about George Street, is “Go for it!“.

In the two weeks I spent in the province of Newfoundland & Labrador (note: I haven’t visited Labrador… yet), I was greeted with open arms from some of the warmest people you’ll find in all of Canada. Their unique sense of humour and ability to find a laugh in every situation makes them the type of people you can’t help but want to spend more time with. The culture & scenery that overflows in Newfoundland is hands down one of their greatest treasures. Kissing the cod, drinking the screech, and experiencing such a remote and special part of Canada, that’s the stuff you write home about!

How to Become an Honourary Newfoundlander in 5 Days is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind http://ibackpackcanada.com/8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind http://ibackpackcanada.com/8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind/#comments Tue, 23 Oct 2012 13:00:13 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5375 8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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This summer I had the opportunity to travel to the mecca of arctic adventures. Churchill, Manitoba – home of the polar bears, the belugas, tundra buggy’s, zodiac adventures, and some of the friendliest Canadians you’ll come to meet. In this small town of less than 1000 people, travellers from all over the world board VIA Rail in Winnipeg and take the 2 day northbound journey to the edge of the Hudson Bay to find out what goes on this far north. Little did I know I’d be aching to return. These are the 8 reasons I can’t get Churchill off my mind!

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The Metis Infinity Flag

1. The Local People

On the northbound train from Winnipeg to Churchill, you’ll hear stories. People warn you to be careful up there. While you should be careful wherever you go, and avoid confrontation with everyone you meet while traveling, those warnings were completely blown out of the water after the first day in Churchill. Between the friendly staff, the locals walking by on the street, and yes, even the beer drinkers at the pub, I didn’t have a single run in with anyone I couldn’t shoot the poop with. The people of Churchill are a friendly bunch and happy to talk travel, wildlife, and adventures. With such a beautiful landscape surrounding the region, locals of every colour, culture, and creed tend to have something good to say about Churchill.

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2. The Danger

There’s something exciting, knowing that every time you step foot outside of a house or building, you have to be aware of your surroundings. Traipsing around without a care in the world, could lead you to be a tasty dinner for a full grown polar bear. While it’d be crazy for everyone to carry a gun wherever they went, the people of Churchill have devised a much simpler solution. They don’t lock their doors. Should you come across a big hungry polar bear, run to the nearest house and you’re almost guaranteed to be able to walk right in, and stay until the bear is dealt with. Tour companies like the Tundra Buggy Tours deal with this danger by using custom built giant bus’s tall enough to keep standing polar bears at bay.

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3. The Wildlife

While there are no doubt some dangers when you visit a small town that is more or less surrounded by Polar Bears, fact is, they’re what bring most people up north. I’ll never forget, as I was on a zodiac in the middle of the Churchill River, less than a couple Miles from the Hudson Bay, seeing a Polar Bear enjoying a meal he’d caught at the edge of the water. While Polar Bears are the celebrities up here, the Belugas are a close second in the fame game. Since beluga’s were more friendly to me snapping photos, they win this reason! Be sure to have a good zoom lens if you plan on taking any photos of wildlife – or at the very least a decent set of binoculars. You’ll thank me later!

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4. The Adventures

If seeing wildlife from afar isn’t enough, the folks at Sea North Adventure Tours can get you closer than anyone to the belugas & polar bears. Between their Kayak Adventures, their Zodiac Tours, & their boat tours, they also offer snorkelling with Belugas, where you get up close and personal with these magnificent creatures. In the small town of Churchill, there is no shortage of adventures to find yourself on. Go off-roading in the Tundra Buggy’s, custom built giant rovers that cruise over land and water in search of Polar Bears. Churchill isn’t just somewhere you can stop over for a day and say you saw it. In order to experience every bit of it, you need to get out of town and see what this place is really all about.

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5. The Travellers

I’m not sure what it is. Maybe the cold air, the difficulty in getting this far north, or just the spirit of adventure that Churchill inspires within people, but the travellers / tourists that find themselves up here. They’re cut from a different cloth. They’re here for unique reasons. During my brief stay in Churchill I met multiple German backpackers, exploring all that Canada has to offer, I had beers with two women from Minnesota who spent over 2 months kayaking to Churchill, I met a French Canadian student protester who explained to me in his point of view what the big fuss was all about, and a korean student who came up to Churchill on a whim to find work. Those who find themselves up here tend be of the inspirational & interesting variety.

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6. The History

The Dorset, The Thule, The Dene, The Chipewyan and the Cree Natives had all inhabited this region. Their history, art, and culture can be absorbed at the Churchill Eskimo Museum, home to some knowledgeable staff, and a variety of carvings, and historical findings from the area. They say that it was the Dorset & Thule people who encountered the Vikings in the 11th century. Their people recount how large and strong the vikings were, but how easily they were scared off. If first nations history isn’t your cup, Churchill Fort is a must. Suspected to be built by the stone masons, and home to some incredible british and french colonialism history.

Tundra Pub Churchill Manitoba

7. The Food

Despite the fact that food is difficult to get up north, which in turn makes fresh goods tough to come by, the local Churchill restaurants do surprisingly well. Grab a hearty breakfast at the Seaport Hotel, then work up an apetite for lunch. Gypsy’s Bakery & Restaurant pump out high quality food that keeps everyone coming back. After getting a healthy dose of outdoors and wildlife, stop by The Tundra Inn Pub. This isn’t your average pub grub. Between the quality salads, the massive burgers, the superb pizzas, and their sushi Friday’s, they’ve got plenty to choose from. Hang around after for some live music, billiards, and some good old fashion drinking. A night or two at The Tundra Inn Pub will guarantee you at least a couple of stories to take home.

Tundra House Hostel

8. The Tundra House Hostel

While there are several great hotel deals in the area, I can’t say enough about my stay at the Tundra House Hostel. It’s really more of a house than a hostel, but I think I can speak for many, in saying that when you’re travelling, the revolving door of the “big chain hostels” can sometimes make it hard to meet people. The great thing about Tundra House Hostel is not only how cozy it is, but how easy it is to meet people. After all, the train is only in town a couple of times per week, so you’re guaranteed a few days with other travellers, which is plenty of time to make friendships that can last a lifetime. The beds are outstanding and clean, the kitchen, dining room, and living room are exactly what you’d expect to find in any ordinary house. After a long day of taking in Churchill, unwind in the living room and decompress to the sound of the ticking clock.

Churchill has a way of keeping people. You’ll meet countless locals with the same story. One visit, followed by a second, then they never really left, or at least keep finding themselves back in this unique part of Canada. It reminds me a lot of Dawson City in the Yukon. Slightly closed off from the rest of the world. While accessible to most, the difficulty of getting up there keeps the box stores and the chain restaurants away.  The locals seem truly grateful for each tourist or traveller they meet in their own slice of the tundra. It’s a beautiful thing to see a small town thrive.

8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Burlesque & Beers at Diamond Tooth Gerties http://ibackpackcanada.com/burlesque-beers-at-diamond-tooth-gerties/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=burlesque-beers-at-diamond-tooth-gerties http://ibackpackcanada.com/burlesque-beers-at-diamond-tooth-gerties/#comments Mon, 08 Oct 2012 12:30:18 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=4724 Burlesque & Beers at Diamond Tooth Gerties is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Red velvet curtains, wood floors, games of chance, and cold Yukon beer greet each visitor of this unique gambling hall. Smiles crawl across the faces of new visitors and only enlarge at the sight of Gerties Girls, a beautiful bunch of cancan dancers who take stage three nights a week. Welcome to Dawson City’s famous gambling hall – Diamond Tooth Gerties – a unique blast from the past that continues to dominate the nightlife of of this small Gold Rush town.

Timing is Everything

As with most gambling halls, the atmosphere in Gerties changes with the clientele. Show up too early (say the 6pm or 9pm show), and expect to see the PG rated version of the Yukon. RV Tourists and Cruiseline Crusadors fill the hall for a very tame taste of Gerties. However, if you’re able to pump your brakes for a few hours, you’re in for a completely different show.

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I was amongst a loyal group of comrades, hell-bent on seeing every side of Dawson City. Being fans of beer and gin & tonics, we felt obligated to sample drinks coincidentally close to 2 separate showings of Gerties Girls. The 9pm was quiet, we observed people that were well over 20-30 years our senior gamble and drink. The girls danced, embarrassed a few older gentlemen, and smiled as wide as possible. While it was nice to see some Baby Boomers throw a beer or two back, it was still rather family-friendly in my eyes.

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The Midnight Show

Returning at Midnight, the crowd had drastically changed. Lights seemed a little more dim, and Gerties Girls seemed a lot more scantily clad. Locals lined the bar and filled the poker tables. Men with beards longer than the hair on my head slugged beer back like water. The show started, and the bar cleared to watch. Beautiful girls doing sexy things on stage can make the most honest man stop and stare.

Once Gerties Girls left the stage to change outfits, a male performer took stage – clearly trying to seduce the opposite sex in the same manner that Gerties Girls do. It didn’t appear to be working; however, it was then that I figured it out. I looked back at the bar & every inch of standing room around the bar had filled with men seeking refills. As the man-dancer got off stage, the man-drinkers returned to their observation stations. This was genius – Gerties was using the man-dancer to get the men to drink more & also allow the lady-dancers time to change. Yukon ingenuity at it’s finest!

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A Run-in with an Angry Fellow

I joined the flock and learned the rhythm of the bar – it would appear timing out your next drink required accurate planning. Showing up too late meant you missed a song and dance with Gertie & her Girls. After refilling my beer I managed to bump into a local Dawson City gentlemen who didn’t like the cut of my jib. With the assistance of his friend, I was able to convince this rather angry fellow that smashing my face in wouldn’t do either of us any good. In lieu of his act of kindness I was merely encouraged to buy the three of us a shot. That seemed like a fair trade, “Three Tequila’s it is!“.

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A Beautiful Venue

As the final set of Gerties Girls finished up, I did an ocular pat-down of the gambling hall. Men and women were playing blackjack against traditionally dressed dealers in suspenders. The sound of a slot machine spilling it’s guts into the cup of a lucky winner rang through one corner of the bar, lights flashed, people drank, smiles were all around, and the floor was filled with people enjoying a show that could have been put on in the early 1900′s.

Dawson City is this little hidden town in it’s own bubble. Time doesn’t appear to have had much of an affect on it. The beer tastes good, the locals are friendly (even the drunk one that wanted to fight became an ally after drinking tequila with him), and the amount of things to see and do around this little town is astounding. Find a way up here if you’re ever in Whitehorse and see what I feel is the “real Yukon”. A little rough around the edges & jammed full of sexy history, beautiful scenery, and an ample supply of alcohol.

Diamond Tooth Gerties is a non-profit gambling hall that started in the 1950′s by a keen bunch of locals who wanted to promote tourism in The Yukon. Named after Diamond Tooth Gertie, a real life Klondike superstar / lady of the eve who differentiated herself from the “other girls” by sticking a Diamond in her teeth. Diamond Tooth Gerties serves beer, liquor, texas hold’em, roulette, blackjack, and all the slots you can shake a stick at.

Entry Cost: $10.00

Special thanks to the kind folks at Tourism Yukon for helping arrange this excursion, and to the fine people of Diamond Tooth Gerties who let me snap photos of this unique piece of Yukon culture.

Burlesque & Beers at Diamond Tooth Gerties is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Chopper Flight Over the Tombstone Mountain Range http://ibackpackcanada.com/chopper-flight-over-the-tombstone-mountain-range/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=chopper-flight-over-the-tombstone-mountain-range http://ibackpackcanada.com/chopper-flight-over-the-tombstone-mountain-range/#comments Tue, 02 Oct 2012 13:22:42 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=4801 Chopper Flight Over the Tombstone Mountain Range is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Crawling into the rather small helicopter on the tarmac of Dawson City’s tiny airport, I couldn’t help but smile. Up until this point, I had never stepped foot inside a helicopter, and what better way to pop my chopper cherry than in the colossal mountains of the Yukon. Looking at this sophisticated piece of machinery, I couldn’t help but awe at the wonder of flight. Four blades connected to a shell, slicing through the air to provide lift to a handful of men stuffed into its insides. It’s a strange notion the more you dissect it, but as the helicopter got off the ground, I’d never felt more safe, and never felt more alive.

trinity-helicopters-tombstone-tour

Trinity Helicopter Tours

I first met our helicopter pilot at a bar in Whitehorse a few days before the flight. While talking over some beer it turned out that we were alumni’s to the same elementary school in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan – talk about a small world. I had almost forgot about the encounter in Whitehorse until I ran into him again in Dawson City. I laughed thinking “I wonder how many helicopter pilots are in the Yukon, and how come I keep running into this fellow.” As it would turn out, he was fated to blow my mind with the dangerously endearing beauty of the Tombstone Mountain Range.

tombstone-valley-yukon-helicopter

Tombstone Valley

Departing from Dawson City, we climbed the currents of air eastward, exploring the hills, valleys, and trees that completely surround this small town. Our pilot provided us with some colour commentary on the way up, explaining some of the work being done in the current gold mines, and briefly informing our group of the geological studies being performed in the area. It wasn’t long before the tree line began to fade into rocky outcrops – which fast became massive slabs of earth that stabbed the sky.

trinity-helicopters-tombstone-mountains-spires

Yukon Spires

As we flew through Tombstone Valley, it was clear why this area of mountains was used as a landmark for first nations people. The towering spires on each side, the epic beauty of small rivers, colourful greenery, and deep shades of blue, grey, and white make for a scene that can only be described as mind-blowingly-memorable. We hovered in the area, snapping photos, and circling the sharp jagged spires along the Tombstone Territorial Park.

tombstone-mountain-yk

Tombstone Mountain, Yukon

Flying up to Tombstone Mountain, it’s apparent how the name stuck. The sharp flat face and jagged edges truly do the name justice .Looking over some of the mountains, you could see completely different weather systems lingering, threatening our clear skies. Our pilot seemed sure they weren’t going to sneak our way, but it was something he was going to keep an eye on. As we approached the 40 minute mark our helicopter began it’s flight back to Dawson City; however, not before a quick fly by of the the city & the Dredge Ponds which scour the surrounding area.

What are Dredge Ponds?

The dredge ponds located throughout the Yukon are remnants from several multi-million dollar machines that clawed through the land, digging for gold. Their method was far from “good” for the environment, but in those days the word eco-friendly didn’t sit anywhere near machines. In order to extract the gold from the land, a complicated process involving washing the soil with water from the rivers and lakes nearby forced the gold to fall to the bottom of these massive machines. While some see the dredge ponds as a scar on Yukon’s past I can’t help but feel they’re a unique piece of Canadian history.

dredge-ponds-gold-mine-yukon

As our helicopter landed along the Dawson City airstrip I stepped onto solid ground once again. I couldn’t help but laugh in shock of what I’d just seen – taking in the Yukon from the sky is truly the only way to get a grasp of the scale and sheer enormity of this Canadian territory. The Yukon is so sparsely populated by humans, yet so densely populated by wildlife, trees, rivers, mountains and lakes. With helicopter tours starting for under $200, you’d be a fool not to jump aboard.

Trinity Helicopters in the Yukon

Trinity Helicopter Tours offers the most spectacular views of Gold Fields, Tombstone Park, Ibex Valley, Fish Lake, Wheaton Valley, Chilkat Glacier, along with City & River tours in Dawson & Whitehorse.

Dawson City: (867) 993-3971

Whitehorse: (867) 393-3598

Special thanks to Tourism Yukon and Owen at Trinity Helicopters for helping me get up in the air!

Chopper Flight Over the Tombstone Mountain Range is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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3 Delicious Montreal Eats You Need to Try http://ibackpackcanada.com/3-delicious-montreal-eats-you-need-to-try/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=3-delicious-montreal-eats-you-need-to-try http://ibackpackcanada.com/3-delicious-montreal-eats-you-need-to-try/#comments Wed, 26 Sep 2012 14:09:44 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5275 3 Delicious Montreal Eats You Need to Try is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Montreal is known across Canada as a foodies paradise. With row after row of restaurants, pubs, diners, and bistro’s, you can literally go on a culinary adventure in just a couple of square blocks. While there are countless superb restaurants, I always like to find out what city’s are famous for. Something locals go back to week after week due to brand loyalty, an unquenchable craving, or from sheer addiction. Ask a true local Montrealer this question, and besides Hab’s games, there’s three things you can almost guarantee everyone will agree on.

montreal smoked meat sandwich schwartz's

1. Schwartz’s Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich

Schwartz’s has been serving hungry french and english Canadians since 1928. Besides being a Montreal landmark, it’s known to most as being the last true Montreal Smoked Meat restaurant. Meat is cured for at least ten days then smoked in their brick smoke-house which has 84 years worth of delicious buildup, ensuring a romantic taste of yesteryear finds its way into each slice of this succulent meat.

schwartz's montreal smoked meat

Their most popular dish is the Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich. Slice after slice of hot, delicious Montreal-Style Smoked meat, served between a soft rye bread with a squirt of mustard. Space is tight at Schwartz’s, and you’ll often find a line waiting outside, but the wait is always worth it. Trust me!

Pro Tip #1

They say if you want to eat it right, you have to order it a Medium-fat Smoked Meat Sandwich with fries, pickle, coleslaw, and wash it all down with a black cherry soda.

Pro Tip #2

Shwartz’s is a cash-only joint delicatessen. Fill those pockets with some money before you dive into one of the best sandwiches on earth.

la-banquise-poutine

2. La Banquise Poutine

I once wrote about my favourite poutine joint, but with the help of Marie-Julie Gagnon, esteemed Montreal travel writer, I have seen the light. I am no longer a devout loyalist to Chez Ashton’s thrown, I’ve had to hand that title off to La Banquise. La Banquise serves 25 different types of poutine, all of which have their own unique spin on the classic dish of fries, cheese curds, and gravy.

la-banquise-menu

Try La T-Rex, your classic fries, cheese curds, and gravy with hamburger meat, pepperoni, bacon, and diced hotdogs, smothered on top of this classic french-canadian dish. Or get a little exotic, and go for La Taquise, the classic poutine dish served with guacamole, sour cream & tomatoes. My personal favourite; however, is La Duleton, your classic poutine served with hamburger meat & onions.

Pro Tip

Poutine is best enjoyed after a long night of drinking, which is convenient, because La Banquise is open 24 hours a day. Stuff your gut full of one of these delicious poutine dishes before passing out for the night and you stand a much higher chance of being a functional human being in the morning.

montreal-bagel-fairmount

3. The Montreal-style Bagel

While the New York Bagel often overshadows the Montreal Bagel, it is not for good reason. Montreal-style bagels are in a league of their own. They are handmade and baked in a wood-fire oven and consumed by hundreds of thousands of hungry Montrealers each morning.

Preparation is a bit different than the New York bagel. The recipe for Montreal-style bagels is slightly different, and they’re each boiled in water that’s been sweetened with honey. After a quick dip in the water, they’re baked in a wood-fire oven, then coated in either black poppy seed or white sesame seed. You’ll find that Montreal-style bagels are typically smaller than the New York bagel and are often found to be sweeter, due to the honey-water soaking.

Fairmount Bagel Montreal QB

While there are countless bakeries in Montreal serving these bagels, be sure to pop by Fairmount Bagel at 74 av. Fairmont West, in the Mile End community. Fairmount Bagel has been pushing dough through ovens since 1919, and is oddly enough the only type of bagel to have ever made it into space!

Food plays a large part in Montrealers lives. Thankfully, Montreal is one of the most walk-able cities in Canada, giving you ample opportunity to walk off a few of the extra calories you’ll surely find yourself chowing on when you visit this unique Canadian city. Just remember, it’s okay to indulge in Montreal!

A little bit of Canada in Europe, the Canadian Aparthotel in Laganas offers a fun vacation near all of the action.

Win a Moleskin Notebook Through Twitter

Contest Time! Just RT “I want to win a Moleskin notebook from @ibackpackcanada & @Keep_Exploring! http://goo.gl/4lOYt” #ExploreCanada”

Winners will be drawn at random. Contest ends October 5th, 2012. 

View a Photo of the Prizes!

For more on my adventures with the Explore Canada Cross-Canada Travel Bloggers, check out out Canada Keep Exploring! Special thanks to the folks at the CTC for giving us the opportunity to show us around two of Canada’s most vibrant and cultural cities. 

3 Delicious Montreal Eats You Need to Try is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Walking On The Edge of the CN Tower with EdgeWalk http://ibackpackcanada.com/walking-on-the-edge-of-the-cn-tower-with-edgewalk/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=walking-on-the-edge-of-the-cn-tower-with-edgewalk http://ibackpackcanada.com/walking-on-the-edge-of-the-cn-tower-with-edgewalk/#comments Tue, 25 Sep 2012 15:45:10 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5306 Walking On The Edge of the CN Tower with EdgeWalk is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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I love a good adventure. Camping, exploring, trying new foods, doing something unique and original. Despite my love for adventure, heights are still tough for me to deal with. I can usually fight through it, but it usually involves a tremendous amount of grunts, screams, sour faces, and teeth grinding. It happened when I bungee jumped in New Zealand, and it happened when I Sky Dived in Australia. I thought after falling from the sky a couple of times, I’d have conquered heights for good. That was all about to be tested as I prepared for the EdgeWalk, a 20-30 minute walk, 356 meter (1,168 ft) above Toronto in the famous Canadian landmark, the CN Tower.

CN Tower Walk

CN Tower EdgeWalk

One would think that if your morning included a 20-30 minute walk that will require you to hang your entire body over the edge of the CN tower, you would get a good nights sleep. Perhaps enjoy a quiet night to reflect on every move you will make on the following day’s adventure. I’m sure for some, that makes sense. For me, it didn’t. Instead, I, along with my blogger colleagues, drank like fish.

We woke up, groggy, tired, and laughing at how bad of an idea that was. We cabbed to the CN Tower, heads pounding, and suited up in red jumpsuits and fighter pilot harnesses and tried our best to concentrate on the task at hand. Safety. The folks at CN Tower take it very seriously (even going so far as breathalyzing EdgeWalkers… don’t worry, I passed), and while they’ll joke around to ease the tension on the ground, as soon as you’re on a metal grate 356 meters above Toronto the jokes end, and they turn into trustworthy teachers, coaching you to push your limits.

CN Tower

The Top of the CN Tower

I have to admit, I was so tired and beat up from the night before, I didn’t even have time to process what it was we were about to do. As the elevator climbed to the top of the CN Tower, we entered a special room with a door opened to the outside of the tower. With the help of the EdgeWalk staff, we were connected to the rails, and told that the cables that keep us attached to the tower were strength tested to the weight of an elephant.

Corbin Walking on CN Tower

I nervously looked outside, and saw the grate we were going to be walking on. The wind blew a harmonic one pitch note that for whatever reason, struck fear inside me. I began to shake my head in disbelief. Laughing uncomfortably at what had to be done. After being stuck onto the rails with a couple of cables, we proceeded outside. If you’re wondering what the best hangover cure is, it’s fear & adrenaline.

CN Tower Hanging Over Edge - Corbin Fraser

An Unreal View of Toronto

After 15 minutes of hanging my toes over the edge, and learning to trust the equipment, I was soon quasi-comfortable enough to hang over the edge, relying solely on the cables to keep me from falling to what would surely be the end for me. While the wind & eerie single-tone harmonic was noticeable, it didn’t feel as if we were going to be pushed off the edge. The view on the other hand, words just won’t do it justice. It almost seems unreal. A backdrop from a movie set. It’s as if you’re living in a real-world Sim City, and you’re observing your citizens go about their daily days. Cars rush, people the size of ants wade through crowds, construction workers atop half built-buildings hammer away, and planes land at the Billy Bishop Airport on the Toronto Islands. The city becomes a living organism, and each person, bike, car, and building have their place.

EdgeWalk isn’t just about fear, adrenaline, or adventure. While at times, you will surely question your own sanity for wanting to do this, and even question the sanity of those who decided to make this a tourist attraction, there’s more to it than the crazy feeling you’ll surely feel atop the CN tower with no gates or windows holding you back. It’s about seeing this unique and beautiful Canadian city from a whole new angle. Taking in Toronto in a complete panorama that any viewing deck or photo simply can’t compare to. Not even close!

For more on my adventures with the Explore Canada Cross-Canada Travel Bloggers, check out out Canada Keep Exploring! Special thanks to the folks at the CTC for giving us the opportunity to show us around two of Canada’s most vibrant and cultural cities. 

 

Walking On The Edge of the CN Tower with EdgeWalk is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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