cc licensed ( BY ) flickr photo shared by gLangille

What is Screech?

I’ve heard stories about it’s origins, my favourite being that way back, when the cod fisheries were still a lively part of Newfoundland, the Newfoundlanders would trade their skunky gross cod to Jamaicans, while Jamaicans, would trade their skunky gross Rum. Both thought they were getting a helluva deal, thinking “We’ve just scored some exotic Rum or Fish“. Needless to say, they were both giving eachother the shaft.

Hypothetical history aside, Screech is very strong, often strong tasting rum. While it was originally conjured up in the Jamaican islands, it’s now produced locally in Newfoundland, and served with everything from 5 star meals, to ice cream, and of course, to show CFA’s (Come from aways) how strong & prominent the Newfoundland drinking culture is.

The taste of screech has changed significantly in the past years and is now considered a sought after rum in the rum drinking scene. So keep an eye out for it at your local liquor stores.

But what is a Screech In?

The Screech In is a Newfoundland custom, whereby local Newfoundlanders encourage those not from Newfoundland to become an honourary Newfoundlander. The steps for a screech in vary from place to place, but the typical way goes as such:

1. The Screecher Inner asks the CFA (Come From Away) ”Is ye an honorary Newfoundlander?“
2. The CFA replies “Deed I is me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw!“
3. CFA hammers back a shot of Screech
4. CFA kisses a slimy cod fish on the mouth
5. CFA Receives a certificate indicating he or she is an honourary Newfoundlander.

The process reminds me a bit of the Sourtoe Cocktail, only with a little more of a party culture surrounding the process. Screech in’s typically finalize with a few (or a dozen) more drinks, lots of cheering, and a bit of a headache the following morning.

Getting Screeched in at Twillingates Anchor Inn

While many have the screech in ceremony performed in St Johns, we were given the opportunity to have the ceremony performed somewhere a little more small, a lot more quaint, and in a true blue old fashioned kitchen party. The city & region surrounding Twillingate is simply stunning. Tourists from all over the world visit these parts in search of icebergs, picturesque panoramas of the Newfoundland seaside, and to experience the warm & welcoming culture that encompasses every Newfoundlander to the core. I had spent days thinking about the screech in and how it would happen, but something I hadn’t even considered was how much I would fall in love with the place I was to be made an “Honourary Newfoundlander”.

Enjoying a Newfoundland Brewis & Scrunchions

Delicious Food at the Anchor Inn

After enjoying a delicious meal at the Anchor Inn, we proceeded downstairs to the Pub, where local musician Karen Churchill was putting on a bit of a shindig. Walking into the kitchen party, we noticed that we were by far the youngest people at the kitchen party. Most were well into their 40s, 50s, and 60s, while were were considered the youngin’s in our mid 20s. One might think that we’d be ostrasized from the baby-boomer party-goers, but rather, they embraced us with open arms and practically shoved insturments in our hands.

We were handed a wood clacker, a tamborine, and an ugly stick. What is an ugly stick you may ask? Well, it’s a Newfoundland instrument, made up of an old mop, a bunch of jangling beer bottle caps, a couple old soup or tomato cats, and stick to beat said ugly stick with to produce noise. While rocking out to the awesome Newfoundland folk tunes of Karen Churchill we were slamming back some tasty Newfoundland beers like they were going out of style.

Rocking out with Karen Churchill at Twillingates Famous Kitchen Party

The Twillingate Kitchen Party

After my 12th beer, my liquid confidence meter had been filled, and I proudly accepted an invite from Karen Churchill to rock out with her on the small little stage in the corner. I grabbed the acoustic guitar, and followed the lead of the local legend herself, rocking out while she was on the banjo. It was an experience that I’ll never forget!

What might have been a few beers later, the official designated Screecher Inner showed up on stage in full yellow mariner weather suit with a slimy frozen cod fish and a bottle of Screech. Shots were poured as the CFA’s lined up in front of the kitchen party. Riley, myself, and a couple from Quebec nervously awaited the shot that is meant to be feared so much. We stood wobbly, and announced in a slurred fashion “deed I have me old cock” – “No no no!” the Screecher Inner announced. “Did I is my ol’ cock, everyone start all over“. A back and forth of misprounced Newfoundland english went on until finally we all nailed it. ”Deed I is me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw”. We hammered our shot of Screech, kissed a slimy cod, and laughed as a crowd of cheers erupted the small hall of the Anchor Inn hotel.

A trip to Canada wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Central Newfoundland to see & experience this quirky tradition.

Beautiful Newfoundland

The screech in has been criticized by some as being a terrible thing, some sort of monstrous atrocity that Newfoundlanders should be ashamed of. To that I simply say “Psssh!” You can’t fight a tradition that fun! Embracing the quirky and often times humourous parts of your culture is the best way of showing a CFA a good time. The entire ceremony is done tongue and cheek, and nobody is forced to participate. It’s this type of custom that people will go home telling friends and family, which will no doubt encourage many more to visit the province of Newfoundland & Labrador and experience this initiation themselves. Harmless fun with some of the friendliest people in Canada. What more could you ask for?

Special thanks to the folks at Adventure Central Newfoundland for the help arranging the trip. Extra big thanks & a high five goes out to Karen Churchill for the awesome performance and the warm & friendly staff at the beautiful & cozy Anchor Inn Hotel & Suites.

Getting Screeched In at Twillingate’s Anchor Inn is a post from: I Backpack Canada

1. Eat Cod Tongues

While most pubs across North America are all but too happy to serve you french fries, sweet potato fries, or even some chicken wings – out east in Newfoundland, they accompany their beers with something a little different. Who wants those gosh darn salted potatoes when there’s giant cod tongues just begging to be battered and deep fried to perfection. Yes, Cod Fish do in fact have tongues, and I can attest that they’re larger than you’d imagine. Cod tongues are roughly the size of a adult human male’s big toe, squashed down to tongue shape.

One might think that a big slimy atlantic Cod fish’s tongue would taste a bit off, but hand over heart, they were deeeeeeeelish. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, spiced to perfection and the perfect complimentary snack to go alongside an ice cold Newfoundland Beer. I hope their quirky pub grub makes it off the island, because I have been craving to pop some more of those tasty Cod tongues back in my mouth.

2. Drink Newfoundland Beer, then drink some more

Newfoundlanders drink the most beer per capita in all of Canada. Perhaps it’s the sporatic weather that changes on a whim, or the fact that they have a wide variety of beer to choose from. Dominion, Jockey Club, India, Blue Star, Black Horse,  While some might complain that all of the local Newfoundland beer have been bought up by the big boys (Labatts, Molson, etc), served cold, there’s worse things to drink.

3. Hike to the Edge of the World

One of the coolest hikes you can possibly do, particularly for bragging rights & the stunning vistas, is the Brimstone Head hike on Fogo Island. According to the Flat Earth Society, a slightly kooky bunch who promote all things Flat Earth related, Brimstone Head is one of the four corners of the “Flat Earth”. Whether or not you are a flat earther or a “rounder”, the hike is absolutely breathtaking. Sharp cliffs, pounding waves, strong winds, and a stunning panorama of Fogo Island. It’s a fairly easy hike, and definitely worth it. If you’re curious about the Flat Earth Society I recommend reading Man on the Lam’s post. It’ll give you a couple chuckles.

Be sure to dress appropriately on these hikes. I highly recommend bringing a rain jacket at the very least. After all, it’s Newfoundland. One of the few places where you can experience every season in a day.

4. Rock out at a Kitchen Party

We were fortunate enough to get to visit the small town of Twillingate, made famous in the Newfoundland Folk Song, “I’s the b’y“. Driving into town, we blasted the song on the car stereo, as we pulled into the Anchor Inn, a cute little hotel with a fantastic restaurant, a pub, and a weekly kitchen party, which just so happened to be taking place the night we pulled into town.

After a few warm-up drinks at the Anchor Inn restaurant, we made our way down to the pub and pulled into a kitchen party. Despite being 20-30 years younger than most at the party, we were committed to having a time. We filled our table up with beer, grabbed an ugly stick, a wood clacker, and rocked out. After my 10th beer I had enough liquid confidence to hollar up to Karen Churchill, the host of the Twillingate Kitchen Party, and happily informed her that I was eager to back her up with some guitar. She invited me on stage and next thing I know it I’m rocking out on stage, having the time of my life.

5. Get Screeched In

This is the official “Become an Honourary Newfoundlander” tradition that has been taking place for years, with the help of a tremendous amount of alcohol. In order to get screeched in the willing participant has to reply to the epic question, “Is ye an honorary Newfoundlander?” with the phrase, “‘deed I is me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw.” The ceremony continues as you’re asked to kiss a Cod fish, followed by taking a shot of Screech. What is screech you might ask? Very strong, and very nasty rum. This is usually done in front of a crowd, and accompanied by several more pints and some heavy amounts of laughter. Sort of like the Sourtoe Cocktail, only more fishy. You’re given a certificate at the end to brag to your friends & family about how awesome you are.

I got screeched in at the Kitchen Party in Twillingate, but many insist the best place to get screeched in is at Kristians in St Johns, Newfoundland.

6. A night on George Street

George Street isn’t just famous in Newfoundland, but across all of Canada as being the street that makes St Johns the city with the most Pubs & Bars per capita than any other city in Canada. The Newfoundlander’s know how to party, and a night on George Street will show you exactly how much. People pour out of bar after bar, jumping from dance clubs to pubs to greasy spoons, all in the name of a good time. Cheap drinks, greasy food, one of the liveliest atmospheres mixed with people speaking with their nearly indecipherable accents, and all I can say about George Street, is “Go for it!“.

In the two weeks I spent in the province of Newfoundland & Labrador (note: I haven’t visited Labrador… yet), I was greeted with open arms from some of the warmest people you’ll find in all of Canada. Their unique sense of humour and ability to find a laugh in every situation makes them the type of people you can’t help but want to spend more time with. The culture & scenery that overflows in Newfoundland is hands down one of their greatest treasures. Kissing the cod, drinking the screech, and experiencing such a remote and special part of Canada, that’s the stuff you write home about!

How to Become an Honourary Newfoundlander in 5 Days is a post from: I Backpack Canada

Timing is Everything

As with most gambling halls, the atmosphere in Gerties changes with the clientele. Show up too early (say the 6pm or 9pm show), and expect to see the PG rated version of the Yukon. RV Tourists and Cruiseline Crusadors fill the hall for a very tame taste of Gerties. However, if you’re able to pump your brakes for a few hours, you’re in for a completely different show.

I was amongst a loyal group of comrades, hell-bent on seeing every side of Dawson City. Being fans of beer and gin & tonics, we felt obligated to sample drinks coincidentally close to 2 separate showings of Gerties Girls. The 9pm was quiet, we observed people that were well over 20-30 years our senior gamble and drink. The girls danced, embarrassed a few older gentlemen, and smiled as wide as possible. While it was nice to see some Baby Boomers throw a beer or two back, it was still rather family-friendly in my eyes.

The Midnight Show

Returning at Midnight, the crowd had drastically changed. Lights seemed a little more dim, and Gerties Girls seemed a lot more scantily clad. Locals lined the bar and filled the poker tables. Men with beards longer than the hair on my head slugged beer back like water. The show started, and the bar cleared to watch. Beautiful girls doing sexy things on stage can make the most honest man stop and stare.

Once Gerties Girls left the stage to change outfits, a male performer took stage – clearly trying to seduce the opposite sex in the same manner that Gerties Girls do. It didn’t appear to be working; however, it was then that I figured it out. I looked back at the bar & every inch of standing room around the bar had filled with men seeking refills. As the man-dancer got off stage, the man-drinkers returned to their observation stations. This was genius – Gerties was using the man-dancer to get the men to drink more & also allow the lady-dancers time to change. Yukon ingenuity at it’s finest!

A Run-in with an Angry Fellow

I joined the flock and learned the rhythm of the bar – it would appear timing out your next drink required accurate planning. Showing up too late meant you missed a song and dance with Gertie & her Girls. After refilling my beer I managed to bump into a local Dawson City gentlemen who didn’t like the cut of my jib. With the assistance of his friend, I was able to convince this rather angry fellow that smashing my face in wouldn’t do either of us any good. In lieu of his act of kindness I was merely encouraged to buy the three of us a shot. That seemed like a fair trade, “Three Tequila’s it is!“.

A Beautiful Venue

As the final set of Gerties Girls finished up, I did an ocular pat-down of the gambling hall. Men and women were playing blackjack against traditionally dressed dealers in suspenders. The sound of a slot machine spilling it’s guts into the cup of a lucky winner rang through one corner of the bar, lights flashed, people drank, smiles were all around, and the floor was filled with people enjoying a show that could have been put on in the early 1900′s.

Dawson City is this little hidden town in it’s own bubble. Time doesn’t appear to have had much of an affect on it. The beer tastes good, the locals are friendly (even the drunk one that wanted to fight became an ally after drinking tequila with him), and the amount of things to see and do around this little town is astounding. Find a way up here if you’re ever in Whitehorse and see what I feel is the “real Yukon”. A little rough around the edges & jammed full of sexy history, beautiful scenery, and an ample supply of alcohol.

Special thanks to the kind folks at Tourism Yukon for helping arrange this excursion, and to the fine people of Diamond Tooth Gerties who let me snap photos of this unique piece of Yukon culture.

Burlesque & Beers at Diamond Tooth Gerties is a post from: I Backpack Canada

In true rockstar fashion, I was swept up by a limo company as soon as I landed in Toronto, and brought to the Cambridge Suites in downtown Toronto. While I’m used to public transport and splitting cabs with fellow airportee’s, I have to admit, having your own driver is something I could get used to. After dropping off my backpack in these luxury Toronto Suites, I promptly grabbed the 505 Streetcar to Chinatown. Chinatown; however, wasn’t my destination. A short walk and I was back in one of my favourite neighbourhoods of Toronto. Kensington Market.

Kensington Market

The streets of Kensington Market are filled with local produce, small restaurantes, patios, vintage shops, hand made crafts, and the occasional smell of incense. For those who’ve ever been to Australia, I like to compare this area of Toronto as “Byron Bay”, but without the beach. It’s a gathering place for free-spirits, hip young adults, and people interested in seeing a local side of Toronto.

Having not eaten in 7 hours, my gut was beyond grumbling. It was screaming at me to feed it. Everything looked so good though, and decision making has never been a skill I’ve excelled at. Mexican? A bakery? Burgers? Pub grub? Then, of the corner of my eye, I gazed upon The Grilled Cheese. I B-lined it there, and ordered the best Grilled Cheese sandwich I’ve ever eaten.

After inhaling a tremendous amount of cheese, I ran into a fellow Cross-Canada travel blogger, Frankie Bird of As the Bird Flies. As someone who’s been to Kensington Market a handful of times I was nominated as leader. In true Canadian fashion, I found beer. Mill Street beer, Steamwhistle & Tankhouse to be exact. The patio of The Last Temptation is one of my favourite spots to people watch in Toronto. The patio & window seating is just high enough to observe a bit of everything going on around you, and the food & drinks are surprisingly easy on the pocket.

The Bata Shoe Museum

After intros and pitchers of beer, it was time to see some more of Toronto. While we discussed the possibility of the CN Tower, as well as the Royal Ontario Museum, it was the Bata Shoe Museum that won our attention. A museum dedicated to the history of footwear. Thousands of years of it! Hands down one of the most interesting and cute museums I’d ever been to. It also gave me a huge appreciation for the sneakers I wear, and added even more respect to women for putting up with some of the uncomfortable footwear they’ve endured in the past, and continue to occasionally wear today.

Pimm’s, Gin, & a Filet Mignon

By 630pm the rest of the group had congrugated to the lobby of the Cambridge Suites, and we left as a group to Easy & Fifth. A trendy and unique restaurant located a short old-fashioned elevator ride above one of Toronto’s funnest clubs. It was there that I enjoyed Pimm’s & Gin, tackled a lovely salad, then finished it off with what might have been the tastiest and best cooked filet mignon I’d ever ordered.

For 24 hours in Toronto, we squeezed in a bunch, but we’d only just scratched the surface, and there was more TIFF & Toronto sights, sounds, and eats to take in. All in all, a great way to start off a superb trip catered to showing the world a slice of Toronto.

Grilled Cheese, Mill Street Beer, A Museum of Shoes, & a Heckuva Time is a post from: I Backpack Canada

I am absolutely in love with Quebec. While I’ve shared many a heated debates with english Canadians about their position on the bilinguality of Canada, I maintain that the french canadians are an essential part of this magnificent country. They are the chicken stock to our mosaic flavoured soup. The eggs to our omelette. The cheese to our poutine! I urge every english Canadian to spend at least a week in this province to truly understand its significance to not only the population of Canada, but to the ideals which make Canada what it is. I traveled by VIA Rail to Quebec and traveled around the province for 3 weeks exploring this amazing culture.

These are the reasons I love Quebec:

The French-Canadian Food & Drink

While it’s hard not to speak of the seducing allure of poutine, there is more to french canadian cuisine than fries & cheese curds covered in a whopping helping of gravy. Between the artisan cheese, the old country style breads, or the insatiable beauty of french canadian beer, Quebec has no shortage of mouth watering tastes. Try Unibroues “La Fin du Monde“, a 9% golden belgian style ale with fruity hints and a strong punch that will keep you practicing your french with healthy amount of liquid confidence. Don’t forget to watch for local bakeries where you can pick up some of the best Montreal styled bagels along with some of the best tasting bread you will find in Canada.

The French Canadian History

Canadian history is hardly as glamorized as our american neighbours, but looking into the annals of time, an interesting story of settlers, natives, fishermen, farmers, soldiers and wars unravels into the birth of Canada. Stepping foot onto the Plains of Abraham to picture a war that lasted 15 minutes and resulted in the death of both English & French Commanders (James Wolfe and Louis-Joseph de Montcalm), or explore the Ramparts of Quebec, the only remaining walled city in North America besides Mexico City – had it not been for the preservation efforts of Lord Dufferin the Old Quebec landscape might have been lost to a sea of similarity. Don’t forget to check out the “Lieu historique national des Forts-et-Chateaux-Saint-Louis” below Quebec City, a unique look into the past of Old Quebec. The new interactive exhibits and friendly staff of Parks Canada will be sure to bring life to the stories of yesteryear.

The Quebec Arts

I’m always surprised how well the french stand behind their artists. It’s a culture that promotes creativity in a way that is hard to find in western Canada. Between the music, the painting, the sculpting, or the street performing, art can be found throughout this city. It’s not merely tucked away into a corner; rather, it’s promoted and encouraged. From big acts like Cirque du Soleil, to the artists on Rue du Trésor, it’ doesn’t take long to find somebody who is creating something unique and beautiful.

The French Language

While unbeknownst to most english speakers, Quebecois french is much more different than what is spoken in France. Having had the opportunity to share a few drinks with french speakers from France and Quebec, it took less than half a beer before they were arguing over the proper way to say something. Each claims to be more proper french while the other is more influenced by english, and while I’m hard pressed to say who is right, it’s clear they have their differences. Despite their heated debates, Les Quebecois are all but too happy to encourage english speakers to get out of their comfort zone and use whatever french they’ve retained from high school classes. It took me about 2 days before I threw caution to the wind and started fully immersing myself in the french language. After a full week of immersion, my french came back, not completely, but enough that I’m not afraid to start using it again!

The Warm Smiles of Les Quebecois

Perhaps it’s the way english speaking Canadians butcher their beautiful language, but I’ve never seen more smiles in my life than when traipsing through the streets of Quebec City and Montreal. The ability to warm someones day with a genuine smile appears to be engrained in each and every french individual. From the patio waitresses, to the street performers, to the shopkeepers selling t-shirts that read “Oui Oui”, a smile from a French Canadian is like a hug from an old friend. Introducing yourself in french (even the butchered variety) is not only socially proper, but also shows that you acknowledge the rights of french Canadians to live as they please, without forcing english upon them. In this beautiful mosaic that is Canada, I think that’s the least we can do.

The Educational Experience

Having taken french immersion for the majority of my primary and secondary education, I can honestly say that diving into the deep end and experiencing Quebec for a few weeks or longer will give you not only a greater appreciation for the language, but a greater understanding of local expressions, proper connotations of words, and an increased vocabulary. Language is very much a “use it or lose it” skill, and immersing yourself in french language and culture forces those skills to build, to develop and grow upon the foundation that the education system provided you with. While Montreal is a beautifully french metropolis, it has a surprising amount of english speakers, which is why I recommend getting to Quebec City, or further north to Charlevoix and get the opportunity to practice your skills in complete immersion, without any safety net to fall back on. It won’t be easy, but nothing worthwhile is!

It’s been my experience that many western Canadians don’t understand life in Quebec. Stereotypes mixed with preconceived notions of what the french Canadians are like tend to keep most from ever visiting this unique basket of culture and language. Travel has an astounding way of tearing down the walls of peoples assumption. I truly believe that if more english Canadians would leave their bubble to experience Quebec – Peace, happiness and friendship would replace the stereotypes many Canadians possess about this beautiful province, which in turn could help solve the politically sensitive situation that Canada has faced for so many years.

Why I Love Quebec & You Should Too! is a post from: I Backpack Canada

While walking through the streets to Parliament Hill wasn’t exactly what I’d call fast, it was always fun. Whether it was the young adult shot gunning a beer in front of a family with 3 kids, only to have the Dad high five the young fellow for his expert drinking speed, or watching people who aren’t so good in crowds panic and find the nearest corner to breathe. Seeing these little moments pushing through crowd made the journey much more enjoyable.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Eager people visited many of Ottawa’s beautiful sights, including the popular National War Memorial, located near the corner of Elgin and Sparks. It’s hard not to stop and watch as eager Canadians & visitors stand with the guards for photographs. As the day progressed, miniature Canadian flags (which are handed out for free throughout the city) begin to be piled all over “The tomb of the Unknown Soldier“. I learn that this is a tradition in Ottawa, that’s done each year during Canada Day and Remembrance Day.

Party on Parliament Hill

Arriving at Parliament Hill, the stage is lit, children sit on the shoulders of their fathers, and people young and old climb, stretch, and squirm their way into the best view they can possibly get for the show that’s about to start. The excitement in the crowd rises with each minute. “God Save The Queen” follows into “Oh, Canada”, and as the Snowbirds fly over the top of Parliament Hill a loud roar explodes throughout downtown Ottawa.

A Giant Parks Canada Beaver

After watching some award winning performances, including that of one of my favourite female artists “Feist”, along with a quick speech by Prime Minister Stephen Harper, the noon hour shenanigans on Parliament Hill dissipated, and the party spread to the streets and several of Ottawas finest parks. I made a quick walk to the Rideau Canal, and watched as boaters climbed the historic Ottawa locks. Parks Canada was out in full force educating children and adults about the incredible parks in their own backyard. There was also a giant blow-up Beaver, which could make even the most grumpy of Gus’s smile.

A Wall of Red & White

As my mid-day hunger kicked in, it became clear to me that food was the only thing that would keep me going. I set my sights on Major’s Hill Park, where the Chicken Farmers of Canada were serving what they did best. Chicken! As I slithered my way through the crowds, I hit a human road block. It would appear the entire city of Ottawa was playing a giant game of “Red Rover” with me, preventing me from eating. Hungry Corbin is not a pleasant person to be around; so I Hulked out, and in my most Canadian way, “Sorry’d” my way past roughly a thousand people.

Chicken, Chalk, and VIA Rail

I arrived at Major’s Hill Park and watched as the worlds happiest children climbed aboard a miniature VIA Rail train that was cruising around the park. Chalk artists and chalk amateurs coloured the pavement with flags, words, animals, and whatever else their imaginations could come up with. I promptly found myself a $4.00 chicken sandwich and sat back people watching and resting my legs for what was sure to be a busy evening.

Ottawa Jazz’s Up Canada Day

After resting up, I made my way to Confederation Park, where the TD Ottawa Jazz Festival was taking place. July 1st was their free day, and the park was a superb reprieve from the business of Canada Day. A beer gardens in one corner, wide open spaces perfect to lounge on the grass, and some incredible musicians from around the world performed to a happy crowd. I sat back in a chair in the beer gardens, consuming my first beer of the day. Beau’s Lug-Tread Lager, a beautiful local Ottawa beer that couldn’t have tasted better on what might have been one of the hottest Canada Day’s I’d ever experienced.

It was approaching 7:00pm and my energy was fading fast. Between the heat, the long walks, the heavy backpack filled with camera gear, and the heavy crowds, I made a decision. Cold shower! I wandered back to the historic Lord Elgin Hotel where I was staying for the night, and jumped into my incredibly awesome shower. I was in and out, feeling like $100, and ready get back at it. I worked my way back to Parliament Hill and just caught the start of the 7:30pm show.

Live Music & High Fives

After watching Simple Plan do their thing on stage, and watching as the talented Roch Voisine woo’d crowds, the sun was setting fast. The fireworks were going to go off in just over an hour, and judging by the speed I moved through the crowds earlier in the day, I suspected I should leave early. After a 45 minute walk, high fiving the worlds happiest Canadians, I made it back to Major’s Hill Park to watch the fireworks.

Fireworks over the Ottawa River

I set up my tripod, my camera, my remote switch, I had the view framed perfectly for an interesting photo with the parliament with fireworks in the background. I waited patiently, excited for the results. The perfomers in Major’s Hill Park stopped playing. The lights went out. People spread out on the grass, tilting their heads skywards. Then suddenly, an explosion of light and sound. I watched the first one go off, and realized then that I am a big dummy. Turns out I was way off, and I had somehow boxed myself behind a wall. There was going to be no photos of this spectactle.

I quickly grabbed my camera from the tripod, switched into video mode and hit the record button – I figured worst case scenario, I could grab a frame from the movie. The young couple standing next to me laughed, as did I. We were all shaking our head in disapointment, as we had all arrived early to score the best spot, only to be stuck behind a wall. “Nothing a little laughter and beer can’t fix” – said someone standing behind me. “So true“, I replied. I followed the fireworks for the next fifteen minutes with my camera, grabbing each moment of excitement, laughing at myself the whole time.

As the final explosion went off, a thunderous roar could be heard from Parliament Hill and across the river. The sound of thousands of people screaming for a short 30 seconds was almost deafening. As the bands started up again they played as the massive crowd that had gathered in the park slowly drifted downtown to partake in as much drinking as humanly possible. My beard must be turning grey, because I was beat and didn’t have the energy to party for another 3 hours. A couple patio pints of Beau’s and Kichesippi beer and I was beat. Is this what being an adult feels like? As I finished my beer and wandered back to my room at the Lord Elgin Hotel I couldn’t help but think “I honestly am happier with a few patio beers & an easy wake-up than ridiculously loud club music & all night whiskey & tequila shots. Hello adulthood! You’re pretty okay. And Canada, you’re beyond awesome!”

Ottawa Celebrates Canada’s 145th Birthday [Photo Essay] is a post from: I Backpack Canada

Welcome to the Home of the Sourtoe Cocktail

Walking into the Downtown Hotel (Corner of Second St & Queen) – it’s clear you’re in the home of the toe. A giant wooden carving of a severed toe hangs above the bar, inscribed on the carved statue is a Capt. River Rat’s name, along with his year of birth, and an awaiting year of death. It would appear the Captain is still kicking it. I think to myself – “Good to know – surely he’s lost count of how many he’s done and if he’s still alive, how bad can it be!”

I’m greeted by a friendly young lady who has earned the title of “Sourtoe Captain” – her job is to encourage patrons of the bar to enjoy a Sourtoe Cocktail, and upon their agreement, bring them to the back of the bar and initiate them into the Sourtoe Cocktail Club. People gather around the back, waiting for the next person to join the club.

She tries luring me in with her cute eyes, I smile and politely decline “Just spectating for now thanks, probably tomorrow night!” – “But I won’t be here tomorrow night, you’ll have someone else…” she replies. After a bit of back and forth I eventually find myself in the chair at the back of the bar, starring at a severed, wrinkly, pickled human toe. Surprisingly the toe isn’t all that creepy as a whole, it’s just the  nail. Dead people’s nails look ridiculously disgusting.

One Jack Daniels with a twist of Sourtoe

The bartender offers me a glass – “Yukon Jack?” she asks –”Jack Daniels please“, I reply. She pours me two fingers and brings back my highball to the table. I smell the oaky tones of JD and hope it’s enough to mask the taste of dead people. I then made a promise to myself, this is the closest I’ll ever get to cannibalism. She picks up the severed human toe, and drops it into my glass. It bounces gently on the bottom of the highball glass. I make eye contact with the toe, then The Captain passes me the traditional Sourtoe chapeau. I slap it on, give her the thumbs up just as she starts to speak the words that seal me in as a member of the Sourtoe Cocktail Club.

I hear my cue – “You can drink it fast, you can drink it slow – But your lips have got to touch the toe.” – I pick up the highball and bring it to my face, slowly pouring the warm JD down my throat, savouring the burn. The toe falls from the bottom of the glass and touches my lips and I decide to hold it there for a couple seconds. Make it official – and likely get a neat photo in the process. The crowd that’s gathered around me cheers as I release the glass from my lips and place it back upon the table. The toe sits upright in the bottom of the glass, as if it’s saluting me for my accomplishment.

A Sourtoe Cocktail with The Captain

As I recover from the burn of the drink, I shake my head in debelief and ask The Captain – “How many times have you done the Sourtoe Cocktail?” – she looks down shyly – “Only twice…” – I reply “You should do it again! Do a Sourtoe with us!“. After a few prodding words of encouragement from me, she says “What the hell! It’s been a while!“. Her drink is prepared and she asks me to read her in – the script is thankfully printed on my newly minted certificate.

I ask politely “Can we trade hats? Your’s look more official.” – she hesitates, assessing whether I’m worthy of wearing the Captain’s hat. She slowly removes it from her head and passes it to me. I slap on the awesome Captain hat with a big smile and belt out the initiation words. She slams a Sourtoe Cocktail like a champ – ”Clearly not her first time”, I think to myself. The Captain sticks her hand out “Hat…” she says. I pass her the Captain’s hat and she slaps it back on, adjusting it slightly, laughing – “You don’t know how many people try to get me to do a Sourtoe Cocktail with them, you guys got lucky!”

Member No. 44,119 & Counting

As I get up out of my chair, thanking her for the experience, another patron sits down. The Sourtoe Cocktail practically sells itself. It’s an experience. One of those unique & quirky things you don’t want to leave Dawson City without doing. You’ll be happy to hear that once you pay to do the Sourtoe Cocktail once (Cost of $5 + drink cost), you can do them free for the rest of your life – you only have to pay the cost of the drink. Did I mention you get a Sourtoe Cocktail Club card? I keep mine beside my health card.

The Sourtoe Cocktail – A Yukon Tradition is a post from: I Backpack Canada

Before I get started, I should mention I love beer. Not like alcoholism ”love”, but I appreciate a cold devil on a hot day. Heck, any day will do! Despite this love and affection I have for beer, I am by all means not a snobby Beer Connoisseur. I’m not all that picky when it comes to what I’m drinking. So long as she’s cold, chances are I’ll give it a thumbs up, or at the very least won’t completely hate it. I’d like to think my tastes have grown up a bit though; and I think I have some of these incredible brewery’s in Halifax to thank.

The Halifax Macrobrews

Alexander Keiths

One of the oldest commercial brewery’s in North America was started in Halifax, way back in 1820. Many Haligonians pride themselves on the Keiths brew. Beer Snobs will tell you Keiths IPA doesn’t taste a thing like the original Keiths recipe, which is probably true; but that doesn’t stop the entire city from calling Keiths “their” beer.

Keiths is now owned by the beer-giants at Labatts. By all means not the best beer of the bunch in my honest opinion, but well worth the try, simply for historical value. As the saying goes, “Those who like it, like it a lot”. The same passion likely holds true for those on the other side of the fence. Regardless, if you’ve never been to Canada, its a must try beer.

Head down to the Red Stag Tavern (in the Historic Alexander Keiths Brewery), for a pint and a plate of amazing nachos (whats up caramelized onions!), don’t forget to check out their rooftop patio.

Keiths Brewery Tour

Tours through the Historic Brewery on Lower Water St are about $20. You typically get 2 or 3 beers out of it and are given a great little history lesson on the life of Alexander Keith. Be warned, its one of those Tours with actors pretending to be in the 1800′s. So if that’s not your cup, I’d stick with finding a pub nearby.

Olands Export Ale

In 1867 the Oland Family started brewing tasty tasty beer and it wasn’t long before they started shipping their suds all over Eastern Canada & the Maritimes.The Olands Family first started with Moosehead, and later with Olands Export Ale in the 1920′s. The Olands family eventually sold off the brewery to Labatt’s in the 70′s though. While it’s still brewed in Halifax at the Olands Brewery, some say they’ve lost some of their “Beer Cred” for being owned by Labatts. Try their “Schooner” beer, named after the BlueNose that the Olands Family helped fund and build.

Olands Brewery doesn’t do tours, but will occasionally host Open Houses. Read The Coast to watch for those events. In the meantime, park your keester at a pub, or head to the nearest NSLC for a case of Olands.

The Halifax Microbrews

Garrison Brewing Co

As with most microbrews, Garrison’s is very young compared to the old timers above. Garrison’s got their start in 1997, and have been picking up awards along the way since for their microbrews. Their flagship brew is the Irish Red, but my personal favourite as of lately is their Tall Ship Amber. Their modern facilities are very inviting, and the location is superb. The perfect stop after enjoying the Halifax Boardwalk. Garrison offers up a pretty awesome tour for groups of 10 or more as well. They run for $12 per person, but you definitely get your money’s worth as there are plenty of beers to “sample”.

They’ve got an awesome little gift shop where you can pick up cold Growlers (large jugs of beer) along with your standard beer bottles. They also offer 6oz samples for $2.00 each, which can be a great way of putting each of their beers into your mouth. Be sure to follow them on twitter. These guys are about as local as you can get. Added bonus, their beers have no preservatives.

Propeller Brewery

Like the folks at Garrison, this craft brewery got started in 1997 and has been invading pubs & fridges of residents of Halifax ever since. Located along the eclectic Gottingen Street, this little brewery concentrates on beer for locals. You can taste the love they put into it. Stop by the Prop Shop for their extremely cheap Growlers. A small deposit is required for the massive bottle, but once you have one, refills are only 9 dollars.

Propeller Brewery does offer tours for groups. Having been on several brewery tours, I think this one might be my personal favourite. Depending on how many people are in your group, it’ll cost between $15 and $20; but I assure you that you’ll get your moneys worth. Their brewery tour consists of walking into a back-room with a couple giant tables, a bar with every Propeller Beer on tap, and an iPod plugin for your group to listen to your own choice of music. Basically you sit, and drink. Half way through the “Tour” they ask if anyone wants to see how their beer is made; but it isn’t required. They’re just as happy to let you continue drinking as much as you can in your allotted time.

Granite Brewery

There is a wild history behind the Granite Brewery. They got their start in 1985 in Gingers Tavern as the first Brew Pub east of the Canadian Rockies. It was also one of the oldest taverns in Halifax, going back as far as 1948. This may not seem that old, but one has to remember Nova Scotia was a dry province for a couple decades during prohibition. Unfortunately, Gingers has closed its doors for good, but the brewery that helped make Gingers famous lives on.

The Granite Brewery is now located in the North End of Halifax, at 6054 Stairs Street between Robie and Kempt. They also have another location in Toronto. The Halifax location concentrates on the producing and selling their beer, so don’t expect to find food here. They’re famous beers are still being served all over Halifax, including the Henry House, Obladee, and the Lions Head Tavern. Of coarse you can always pick up bottles & kegs right at the Brewery. Be sure to try their “Peculiar Strong Ale” – it’s delightfully strong and pleasantly awesome!

Rogues Roost

This little brewpub is close to my heart solely for the fact that their IPA is probably the best in town, and also because they’re trivia on Wednesday nights is a blast. Located on Spring Garden Road, you can find a window seat and people watch for hours. Their beer is brewed in small batches with no preservatives and is extremely amazing. I have yet to try every beer they have on tap, but I’ve put enough of a dent in their menu to know that their award winning brewmaster knows what he’s doing.

Rock Bottom Brewery

Another Spring Garden Brewery slash restaurante in downtown Halifax. This tucked away micro brewery is located below Your Father’s Moustache, a popular upstairs restaurante with an awesome rooftop patio. But ignore that patio will ya? Go downstairs, park your keester, and prepare for some mind-blowing brews. Order up a Fathom Red Ale for a robust brew, or go extra crazy and order a Sable Island Wheat Ale (What is Sable Island?). They’re beers are some sort tasty and come highly recommended by drinkers & eaters.

The folks at Rock Bottom also rock a mean trivia on Tuesday nights, which typically leads to some clever questions & some hilarious team names.

The Hart & Thistle

Along the boardwalk of Halifax is a waterfront Gastropub and Brewery called The Hart & Thistle. They serve up some great food with a mean microbrew. Their beer menu changes often; but you won’t be disappointed stopping in for something random. This little restaurantes a perfect spot to take in the Halifax Harbour and truly feel that “Nova Scotian Pride” locals talk about so often.

Staff at the Hart & Thistle is more than happy to talk beer and flavours with patrons. On a recent lunch break I was convinced by the cute tattoo’d waitress to give the American Pale Ale a try. I never got around to thanking her, but it was incredible on that particular hot summer afternoon.

Halifax is always called one of the most “Walk-able” cities in Canada. While prairie people such as myself will say that’s total bullshit (Have you seen the hills?!), everything is very close by. This convenient civic trait makes for an amazing “Micro-brewery Pub Crawl”. Do your mouth & self a favour, grab some friends, stop by a brewery  in Halifax for some serious sud action.

Have you been to any of these breweries? What’s your thoughts on their beer?

8 Rockin’ Breweries in Halifax Nova Scotia! is a post from: I Backpack Canada