I Backpack Canada » Adventure http://ibackpackcanada.com A backpackers travel guide to Canada Fri, 15 Mar 2013 14:45:15 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5 Fogo Island – A Paradise of Newfoundland Sights http://ibackpackcanada.com/fogo-island-a-paradise-of-newfoundland-sights/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=fogo-island-a-paradise-of-newfoundland-sights http://ibackpackcanada.com/fogo-island-a-paradise-of-newfoundland-sights/#comments Tue, 06 Nov 2012 12:06:29 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5421 Fogo Island – A Paradise of Newfoundland Sights is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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When most picture Newfoundland, pictures of colourful houses, scenic downtown vistas overlooking the St Johns harbour, and perhaps the blur that George Street leaves in most visitors minds, long after leaving. While St Johns is no doubt a beautiful city, it is such a small piece of the mosaic of sounds, cultures, and experiences that Newfoundland has to offer. You’d have to be crazy not to get out of town and see what else is out there. On my recent trip to Newfoundland this September, I was exposed to some of the most remote parts of Canada’s most easterly province. To say they were awe-inspiring might be the biggest understatement of the century.

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Fogo Island

The blowing wind cutting through sharp jagged rocks, a sea of colours overwhelming your vision as you strain to keep your eyes open at what is one of the most picturesque destinations in all of Newfoundland. This small rural island is home to  some 2,500 residents, and due to its small size and seclusion from the rest of Newfoundland, their local culture and lifestyle has remained in tact. Ferry’s leave daily from Farewell. Be sure to take in the views from the upper deck of the Captain Earl W. Winsor. The comfort & views aboard this ferry are comparable to many cruise ships. So be sure to have you camera ready!

After an hour on the island, you’ll soon realize why Fogo Island is fast becoming one of the most sought after destinations in Newfoundland. Fogo Island is also famous for it’s appearance in the award winning Newfoundland & Labrador tourism videos, the rugged beauty of this island is simply astounding.

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Fogo Island Artist in Residence Studios

Driving throughout the island, you may catch sight of a slab of architecture that you simply can’t quite figure out. It certainly isn’t historical, yet, it feels natural. It’s as if an alien life form dropped a monolith in the middle of the rugged outdoor beauty. You’ll find these strange buildings all over the island. No, you’re not in 2001: A Space Odyssey and no, you’re certainly not seeing things.

Zita Cobb, a self-made millionaire who came from Fogo Island, recently returned to her home to help encourage artists to continue their passion in whatever form of art that fancies them. Rather than simply creating a scholarship, she had these truly mind boggling artist retreats built throughout the island. Artists have the ability to work in what might be one of the most beautiful places on earth. This unique take on an artist-in-residence has sparked interest around the world, and Zita is being given praise for providing jobs, and giving people many reasons to return to Fogo Island.

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A Hikers Island

If you fancy yourself an outdoorsy type of individual, Fogo Island can deliver. Between The Lions Den Trail, The Fogo Head Trail, The Brimstone Head Trail, or The Turpin’s Trail, there’s something for just about everyone. While the trails aren’t nearly as difficult as some you’ll find on the main island of Newfoundland, the scenic panoramas that each provides will surely explore your mind into thousands of pieces. Needless to say, bring a camera!

I’ve always heard that Newfoundlanders are some of the friendliest people in the world. The residents of Fogo Island hold true to that title and will go out of their way to ensure every CFA (Come from Away) feels at home. Sunsets, seafood, unique architecture, jawdropping landscapes, and a salty sea breeze – this island in Central Newfoundland is the epitome of Newfoundland culture.

Check out The Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism website for more information on Fogo Island. There’s some fantastic videos that will likely have you looking up flights & car rentals in no time!

Special thanks to the folks at Adventure Central Newfoundland for helping arrange this trip with Candice of Candice does the World & Riley of Riles For Miles!

 

Fogo Island – A Paradise of Newfoundland Sights is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind http://ibackpackcanada.com/8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind http://ibackpackcanada.com/8-reasons-i-cant-get-churchill-off-my-mind/#comments Tue, 23 Oct 2012 13:00:13 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5375 8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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This summer I had the opportunity to travel to the mecca of arctic adventures. Churchill, Manitoba – home of the polar bears, the belugas, tundra buggy’s, zodiac adventures, and some of the friendliest Canadians you’ll come to meet. In this small town of less than 1000 people, travellers from all over the world board VIA Rail in Winnipeg and take the 2 day northbound journey to the edge of the Hudson Bay to find out what goes on this far north. Little did I know I’d be aching to return. These are the 8 reasons I can’t get Churchill off my mind!

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The Metis Infinity Flag

1. The Local People

On the northbound train from Winnipeg to Churchill, you’ll hear stories. People warn you to be careful up there. While you should be careful wherever you go, and avoid confrontation with everyone you meet while traveling, those warnings were completely blown out of the water after the first day in Churchill. Between the friendly staff, the locals walking by on the street, and yes, even the beer drinkers at the pub, I didn’t have a single run in with anyone I couldn’t shoot the poop with. The people of Churchill are a friendly bunch and happy to talk travel, wildlife, and adventures. With such a beautiful landscape surrounding the region, locals of every colour, culture, and creed tend to have something good to say about Churchill.

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2. The Danger

There’s something exciting, knowing that every time you step foot outside of a house or building, you have to be aware of your surroundings. Traipsing around without a care in the world, could lead you to be a tasty dinner for a full grown polar bear. While it’d be crazy for everyone to carry a gun wherever they went, the people of Churchill have devised a much simpler solution. They don’t lock their doors. Should you come across a big hungry polar bear, run to the nearest house and you’re almost guaranteed to be able to walk right in, and stay until the bear is dealt with. Tour companies like the Tundra Buggy Tours deal with this danger by using custom built giant bus’s tall enough to keep standing polar bears at bay.

churchill-manitoba-beluga-whales

3. The Wildlife

While there are no doubt some dangers when you visit a small town that is more or less surrounded by Polar Bears, fact is, they’re what bring most people up north. I’ll never forget, as I was on a zodiac in the middle of the Churchill River, less than a couple Miles from the Hudson Bay, seeing a Polar Bear enjoying a meal he’d caught at the edge of the water. While Polar Bears are the celebrities up here, the Belugas are a close second in the fame game. Since beluga’s were more friendly to me snapping photos, they win this reason! Be sure to have a good zoom lens if you plan on taking any photos of wildlife – or at the very least a decent set of binoculars. You’ll thank me later!

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4. The Adventures

If seeing wildlife from afar isn’t enough, the folks at Sea North Adventure Tours can get you closer than anyone to the belugas & polar bears. Between their Kayak Adventures, their Zodiac Tours, & their boat tours, they also offer snorkelling with Belugas, where you get up close and personal with these magnificent creatures. In the small town of Churchill, there is no shortage of adventures to find yourself on. Go off-roading in the Tundra Buggy’s, custom built giant rovers that cruise over land and water in search of Polar Bears. Churchill isn’t just somewhere you can stop over for a day and say you saw it. In order to experience every bit of it, you need to get out of town and see what this place is really all about.

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5. The Travellers

I’m not sure what it is. Maybe the cold air, the difficulty in getting this far north, or just the spirit of adventure that Churchill inspires within people, but the travellers / tourists that find themselves up here. They’re cut from a different cloth. They’re here for unique reasons. During my brief stay in Churchill I met multiple German backpackers, exploring all that Canada has to offer, I had beers with two women from Minnesota who spent over 2 months kayaking to Churchill, I met a French Canadian student protester who explained to me in his point of view what the big fuss was all about, and a korean student who came up to Churchill on a whim to find work. Those who find themselves up here tend be of the inspirational & interesting variety.

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6. The History

The Dorset, The Thule, The Dene, The Chipewyan and the Cree Natives had all inhabited this region. Their history, art, and culture can be absorbed at the Churchill Eskimo Museum, home to some knowledgeable staff, and a variety of carvings, and historical findings from the area. They say that it was the Dorset & Thule people who encountered the Vikings in the 11th century. Their people recount how large and strong the vikings were, but how easily they were scared off. If first nations history isn’t your cup, Churchill Fort is a must. Suspected to be built by the stone masons, and home to some incredible british and french colonialism history.

Tundra Pub Churchill Manitoba

7. The Food

Despite the fact that food is difficult to get up north, which in turn makes fresh goods tough to come by, the local Churchill restaurants do surprisingly well. Grab a hearty breakfast at the Seaport Hotel, then work up an apetite for lunch. Gypsy’s Bakery & Restaurant pump out high quality food that keeps everyone coming back. After getting a healthy dose of outdoors and wildlife, stop by The Tundra Inn Pub. This isn’t your average pub grub. Between the quality salads, the massive burgers, the superb pizzas, and their sushi Friday’s, they’ve got plenty to choose from. Hang around after for some live music, billiards, and some good old fashion drinking. A night or two at The Tundra Inn Pub will guarantee you at least a couple of stories to take home.

Tundra House Hostel

8. The Tundra House Hostel

While there are several great hotel deals in the area, I can’t say enough about my stay at the Tundra House Hostel. It’s really more of a house than a hostel, but I think I can speak for many, in saying that when you’re travelling, the revolving door of the “big chain hostels” can sometimes make it hard to meet people. The great thing about Tundra House Hostel is not only how cozy it is, but how easy it is to meet people. After all, the train is only in town a couple of times per week, so you’re guaranteed a few days with other travellers, which is plenty of time to make friendships that can last a lifetime. The beds are outstanding and clean, the kitchen, dining room, and living room are exactly what you’d expect to find in any ordinary house. After a long day of taking in Churchill, unwind in the living room and decompress to the sound of the ticking clock.

Churchill has a way of keeping people. You’ll meet countless locals with the same story. One visit, followed by a second, then they never really left, or at least keep finding themselves back in this unique part of Canada. It reminds me a lot of Dawson City in the Yukon. Slightly closed off from the rest of the world. While accessible to most, the difficulty of getting up there keeps the box stores and the chain restaurants away.  The locals seem truly grateful for each tourist or traveller they meet in their own slice of the tundra. It’s a beautiful thing to see a small town thrive.

8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Walking On The Edge of the CN Tower with EdgeWalk http://ibackpackcanada.com/walking-on-the-edge-of-the-cn-tower-with-edgewalk/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=walking-on-the-edge-of-the-cn-tower-with-edgewalk http://ibackpackcanada.com/walking-on-the-edge-of-the-cn-tower-with-edgewalk/#comments Tue, 25 Sep 2012 15:45:10 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5306 Walking On The Edge of the CN Tower with EdgeWalk is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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I love a good adventure. Camping, exploring, trying new foods, doing something unique and original. Despite my love for adventure, heights are still tough for me to deal with. I can usually fight through it, but it usually involves a tremendous amount of grunts, screams, sour faces, and teeth grinding. It happened when I bungee jumped in New Zealand, and it happened when I Sky Dived in Australia. I thought after falling from the sky a couple of times, I’d have conquered heights for good. That was all about to be tested as I prepared for the EdgeWalk, a 20-30 minute walk, 356 meter (1,168 ft) above Toronto in the famous Canadian landmark, the CN Tower.

CN Tower Walk

CN Tower EdgeWalk

One would think that if your morning included a 20-30 minute walk that will require you to hang your entire body over the edge of the CN tower, you would get a good nights sleep. Perhaps enjoy a quiet night to reflect on every move you will make on the following day’s adventure. I’m sure for some, that makes sense. For me, it didn’t. Instead, I, along with my blogger colleagues, drank like fish.

We woke up, groggy, tired, and laughing at how bad of an idea that was. We cabbed to the CN Tower, heads pounding, and suited up in red jumpsuits and fighter pilot harnesses and tried our best to concentrate on the task at hand. Safety. The folks at CN Tower take it very seriously (even going so far as breathalyzing EdgeWalkers… don’t worry, I passed), and while they’ll joke around to ease the tension on the ground, as soon as you’re on a metal grate 356 meters above Toronto the jokes end, and they turn into trustworthy teachers, coaching you to push your limits.

CN Tower

The Top of the CN Tower

I have to admit, I was so tired and beat up from the night before, I didn’t even have time to process what it was we were about to do. As the elevator climbed to the top of the CN Tower, we entered a special room with a door opened to the outside of the tower. With the help of the EdgeWalk staff, we were connected to the rails, and told that the cables that keep us attached to the tower were strength tested to the weight of an elephant.

Corbin Walking on CN Tower

I nervously looked outside, and saw the grate we were going to be walking on. The wind blew a harmonic one pitch note that for whatever reason, struck fear inside me. I began to shake my head in disbelief. Laughing uncomfortably at what had to be done. After being stuck onto the rails with a couple of cables, we proceeded outside. If you’re wondering what the best hangover cure is, it’s fear & adrenaline.

CN Tower Hanging Over Edge - Corbin Fraser

An Unreal View of Toronto

After 15 minutes of hanging my toes over the edge, and learning to trust the equipment, I was soon quasi-comfortable enough to hang over the edge, relying solely on the cables to keep me from falling to what would surely be the end for me. While the wind & eerie single-tone harmonic was noticeable, it didn’t feel as if we were going to be pushed off the edge. The view on the other hand, words just won’t do it justice. It almost seems unreal. A backdrop from a movie set. It’s as if you’re living in a real-world Sim City, and you’re observing your citizens go about their daily days. Cars rush, people the size of ants wade through crowds, construction workers atop half built-buildings hammer away, and planes land at the Billy Bishop Airport on the Toronto Islands. The city becomes a living organism, and each person, bike, car, and building have their place.

EdgeWalk isn’t just about fear, adrenaline, or adventure. While at times, you will surely question your own sanity for wanting to do this, and even question the sanity of those who decided to make this a tourist attraction, there’s more to it than the crazy feeling you’ll surely feel atop the CN tower with no gates or windows holding you back. It’s about seeing this unique and beautiful Canadian city from a whole new angle. Taking in Toronto in a complete panorama that any viewing deck or photo simply can’t compare to. Not even close!

For more on my adventures with the Explore Canada Cross-Canada Travel Bloggers, check out out Canada Keep Exploring! Special thanks to the folks at the CTC for giving us the opportunity to show us around two of Canada’s most vibrant and cultural cities. 

 

Walking On The Edge of the CN Tower with EdgeWalk is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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13 Reasons to Ditch Airlines for VIA Rail http://ibackpackcanada.com/13-reasons-to-ditch-airlines-for-via-rail/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=13-reasons-to-ditch-airlines-for-via-rail http://ibackpackcanada.com/13-reasons-to-ditch-airlines-for-via-rail/#comments Mon, 27 Aug 2012 17:26:53 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5089 13 Reasons to Ditch Airlines for VIA Rail is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Henry Miller, the famous writer & painter once wrote – “One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” In the last 60 years, travel has evolved for the impatient. We board a plane, melt into our in-flight entertainment consoles, look out the window a couple of times, and arrive at our final destination. Journeys that once would have taken days, weeks, or even months can be completed in a matter of hours. While I’m not one to complain about the advances of technology, I can’t help but feel that flights have removed some of the romanticism of travel. To experience the “real” Canada, the vast distances, the picturesque landscapes, the topography changes from one corner of this country to the next, nothing can beat travel by train. Having spent over 200 hours on VIA Rail in the last 60 days crossing eight provinces, I have found a new way of seeing things. I have discovered 13 reasons to stop flying and travel Canada by VIA Rail.

Via Rail Lower Berths - Sleepers

Lower Berths

Traveling for days on end can lead to exhaustion. While the economy seats on VIA Rail are massive, with enough leg room that would make a 6’8 basketball player smile, spending a little extra money on a 40+ hour train ride can make all the difference. Stretching out in a freshly made bed, and sprawling in your newfound privacy is something everyone can appreciate. Having your own bench seat during the day (or bed should you choose to leave it down), where you can properly lay back, read, and relax not only helps pass the time, but better lets you enjoy the sights from your window. Sleeping through the night in a comfy bed and waking up well rested and that much closer to your destination is easily worth the price bump.

Via Rail Train - The Showers

The showers

Showering while traveling is important. No more so than when you’re in a train with 28 cars traveling for 2 days straight. While Economy tickets don’t have access to shower, all Sleeping Cars come with them. To wake up refreshed from a full nights sleep and to have access to a clean and hot shower is one of the best ways to start a morning.

Pro Tip

Keep in mind, showers are reserved for anyone in the sleeper cars, so those of you taking economy I would recommend bringing along some soap or some resealable wet naps.

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Time to Work

While Wifi is typically limited to the Corridor (between Windsor & Montreal), if you are able to continue to work disconnected from the rest of the world, you’ll have plenty of time to do so. During my countless hours on the train I was able to organize and edit all of my photos, consistently write new blog posts, and edited three videos.

Pro Tip

If you have to stay connected for business, or just for updating your Facebook status to “I’m on a train!“, a decent cell phone data plan along with the ability to tether can keep you online whenever you’re in 3G coverage.

Via Rail Dining Car Food - Breakfast

The Dining Car Food

VIA Rail’s incredible selection of fully cooked and prepared meals makes the thought of airline food sound like the gruesome meals that were likely prepared in the middle ages. You won’t hear a single moan coming from the dining car as VIA Rail’s helpful staff serve everything from smoked salmon to veal, with your choice of beer, wine, juice, or coffee.

VIA Rail Manitoba Winnipeg

The Lack of Anxiety

While I wouldn’t consider myself a very nervous flyer, there have been times where I couldn’t help but start thinking about the fact that 36,000 feet is a long way down. The closest thing to uncomfortable turbulence you’ll find on VIA Rail is the occasional bumpy line of track, which means nothing more than a gentle rock left to right. No sudden drops, no feeling your stomach in your throat, just a smooth & gentle ride.

The Canadian Train - Via Rail - Observation Car

The Space & Comfort

While I can’t stress how awesome an upgrade on VIA Rail is, even in Economy seats, the amount of room given is on average MUCH more than you’ll find on most airlines. Combined with the ease of getting out of your seat to wander to the Snack Car, the Lounge Car, the Obvservation Car, or just walking to get your blood circulating, having that ease of moving around simply can’t be beat.

VIA Rail Gate Montreal

Less Hassle

My biggest pet peeve with flying is being stuck behind a giant line at airport security, anxiously waiting to get through in fear that I might not make it to my gate on time. Security on airlines isn’t just strict, it’s border-line de-humanizing. While VIA Rail has it in their right to check your luggage, their security is far more realistic for the average traveler. You show up, check your luggage, grab your ticket, board, and go. Removing the scans, the pat downs, the 20 questions of “Where are you going?“, “What do you do?“, really speeds things up and makes for a much more enjoyable experience boarding the train. I traveled between Montreal & Toronto with Riley of Riles For Miles, and she couldn’t stop saying “That was so easy!” after boarding the train.

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The Sights

VIA Rail trains will never win a race with airlines, but that’s not what train travel is all about. The slower pace of train travel on VIA Rail allows you to truly take in the size and scenery of Canada. You’ll be hard pressed to see moose, bear, deer, and a variety of Canadian birds from 36,000 feet up. Traveling  by train, this becomes a daily occurrence! A seat atop the Observation car during the day (or night – with the lights off) offers an astounding view of the scenic landscapes Canada is so famous for.

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The Sounds

Many people don’t know this, but VIA Rail offers free train rides to musicians for performing two 45 minute sets per day on the train for passengers. While this is a great way for musicians to get around the country and tour for cheap, it also gives passengers a unique experience. There’s nothing like watching as the rugged Canadian landscape goes by outside the Lounge Car and some of Canada’s most talented artists serenade guests from all over the world.

I was fortunate enough to catch The Bombadils performing on VIA Rails “The Ocean”, between Halifax & Montreal. I also caught Morgan MacDonald perform on “The Canadian”, between Toronto & Winnipeg. Discovering new artists performing on VIA Rail might have been one of my favourite parts of the entire journey.

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The Social Side of Travel

When I fly I am a grumpy human being. I don’t want to talk to the person next to me. I typically want to scold parents for bringing children on the flight, and I am generally just not somebody anyone would ever want to talk to. Perhaps it’s the discomfort, the nerves, the terrible food, the state of fear the media has us all worked up in. But the last thing I want to do is talk to anybody I don’t know while I travel on a plane.

The opposite couldn’t be more true on train travel. There is nothing more common on trains than seeing people who didn’t know each other as they boarded the train disembark as newfound friends. Partaking in conversation with both young and old, about their jobs, their past travels, their future aspirations, and their general interest in how you ended up on this same train. During my journeys on board VIA Rail, I became a conversationalist. A suave, interesting guy who wanted to speak to anyone who would listen. I couldn’t have been more of the opposite to that grumpy human being I am when flying.

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The Staff

Airline staff can often times feel a bit robotic. Any conversing with staff can lead you with somebody (passenger or staff) glaring at you as if you’re putting the entire world in jeopardy. Staff on VIA Rail behave differently. They are relaxed, happy, comfortable, rested, and it all shows. From the way they’re happy to assist you, to the fact that they’ll spare an extra five minutes from their busy schedule to converse with a passenger about anything from beer preferences, to destination tips. Did I mention they’re hilarious as well?

VIA Rail - Wildlife - Mountain Goat

The Wildlife

The beauty of traveling slow is that you have time to look. Time to take in what you’re seeing, where you are, and who you’re with. In my opinion, one of the best parts of traveling with VIA Rail is the amount of wildlife you’re sure to see. Between bears, moose, elk, and even mountain goats, it’s hard to spend a day on the train and not see something out of the window. What I love is that the staff aboard VIA Rail take time out of their day to announce if there’s wildlife coming up. I scored this great photo of a mother and young mountain goat, a couple dozen kilometers outside of Jasper.

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The Cost

Trains are usually on par with your average budget flight, and at times even less expensive. Train travel isn’t as pricey as many people make it out to be. One has to remember that most legs of train travel are over an entire day and night, saving you a night of accommodation and giving you a comfy ride and a whole new experience.

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Don’t believe me? I took a look at a one way Economy Fair on VIA Rail for September 8th from Toronto to Saskatoon. The adult pass came up at $273.46 ($242 fare + $41.46 tax). I took a same look at Air Canada for a flight on September 8th from Toronto to Saskatoon. The adult pass came up at $420 ($278 fare + $148 in tax). Making VIA Rail the cheaper choice by $146.54! Add on top of that the fact that you’re saving 2 nights of accommodation by sleeping on VIA Rail and you’ll be laughing all the way to the bank.

Via rail map of Canada stations

Photo Courtesy of VIARail.com

As you have probably figured out, I am a convert! Train travel is the bee’s knees, wearing cat’s pyjamas. It’s for those people who aren’t in a rush, who have learned that in life, it’s not only good, but essential to stop and smell the flowers. Canada was built by the railroads, and I think one of the greatest ways to honour this fact is for every Canadian, and every visitor, to see this magnificent country from coast to coast with VIA Rail.

Special thanks to the folks at VIA Rail for having me aboard their train and giving me access to shoot photos & video. 

13 Reasons to Ditch Airlines for VIA Rail is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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A Local Quebecois Experience at Le Massif’s Hôtel La Ferme http://ibackpackcanada.com/a-local-quebecois-experience-at-le-massifs-hotel-la-ferme/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=a-local-quebecois-experience-at-le-massifs-hotel-la-ferme http://ibackpackcanada.com/a-local-quebecois-experience-at-le-massifs-hotel-la-ferme/#comments Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:14:00 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=5147 A Local Quebecois Experience at Le Massif’s Hôtel La Ferme is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Travel has been evolving for generations, but one of the most profound changes in recent years within this massive industry is peoples desire to do no harm, to see the world in the most ecologically friendly way possible without sacrificing comfort and style. While companies strive to make less of an impact by decreasing their emissions and making changes to how their business operates, travellers too are choosing accommodations that go above and beyond eco friendly. Places that serve not only local food, but offer a unique experience that simply can’t be found elsewhere. No place is more relevant to this new form of travel than Le Massif’s new 4 season hotel, “Hôtel La Ferme” in Charlevoix, Quebec. After arriving in Quebec City by VIA Rail, I managed to find myself on another train to Charlevoix.

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Montmorency Falls to Charlevoix by “Le Train”

Getting to Hôtel La Ferme  in Charlevoix Quebec is half of the adventure. While driving is an option, to truly take in the experience you’ll want to catch the train. From downtown Quebec City you’ll need to drive, cab, or bus to Montmorency Falls. Be sure to show up early to take in Quebec’s famous Waterfall and snap photos of the small bridge that crosses overtop. If you find yourself above the falls you’ll want to take the Gondola down ($10.39 Round Trip per Adult). Waiting patiently at the bottom of this magnificent vista is Le Train. Le Massif’s luxury locomotive that travels between Quebec City to Baie-Saint-Paul and onwards to La Malbaie.

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The ride north by train to Baie St Paul and La Malbaie includes some impeccable meals made with local Quebec produce along with one of the best views of the Fleuve Saint Laurent (Saint Lawrence River). In true “Cirque du Soleil” fashion, the entire journey is orchestrated with video, music, and a live map of the trains location in Charlevoix. Throughout the entire journey you’ll learn about the history and importance of this region with the help of an array of iPads found on each dining table. After experiencing the sights, sounds, and tastes from the train, disembark at Baie-Saint-Paul – the train literally stops right beside the hotel!

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What sets Hôtel La Ferme apart?

Le Massif’s hotel/hostel/resort hybrid is something completely original and unique to not only Quebec, but Canada. Daniel Gauthier, the man who co-founded the internationally acclaimed “Cirque Du Soleil” is behind this incredible project. This new 4 seasons hotel is home to swiss inspired luxury rooms along with budget friendly hostel dormitory rooms, perfect for a group of friends on a ski getaway or the lone vagabond exploring Charlevoix. The backyard gardens play a large role with Hôtel La Ferme’s restaurant “Les Labours“, which uses produce they grow themselves in all of it’s meals. This new eco-local-friendly hybrid accommodation provides access to some of Baie St Paul’s most beautiful walking trails and some of the best views of the Fleuve Saint Laurent (Saint Lawrence River).

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The idea is to appeal to not only high end travellers looking to relax, but university students and budget travellers. Young adults who want to hit the slopes of Le Massif during the winter while being given an affordable and luxurious room. While these different types of travellers are in separate buildings, they share access to a common lounge, bar, cafe, performance center as well as “Les Labours” – more on it below. The idea is to promote social engagement, and giving equal access to the luxury amenities that are available at Hôtel La Ferme.

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The Hotel Rooms of Le Massif’s Hôtel La Ferme

Not a single detail has been missed at what is likely to become one of Quebec’s most popular tourist destinations. Between the beautiful Canadiana art, the locally produced blankets that adorn each bed, to the salvaged wood from the Charlevoix area that can been seen throughout the hallways and rooms across the entire complex. Beautiful oak hardwood floors can be seen in each and every room, along with some sturdy hand-made cabinetry. A plasma screen TV, iPod/iPhone ready stereo and a “Nesspresso” machine with pop in espresso capsules can be found in each hotel room.

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Stepping foot into the bathroom is like walking into something you’d expect to see in the TV show “Cribs”. The glass walled shower sports two shower heads, perfect for those who don’t like to shower alone. Don’t forget to try out their luxury soap, shampoo, and conditioner, it will blow that Pantene ProV you brought along out of the water.

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Hôtel La Ferme Reinvented Hostel Rooms

It’s been my experience that the majority of hostels tend to suffer from shoddy bedding, cheap mattresses, loud, squeaky and inconvenient bunk beds, and far too many people crammed into the same room. The folks at Le Massif have replaced “cheap accommodations” in lieu of “budget accommodations”, without sacrificing the quality and craftsmanship seen throughout the rest of the Hotel.

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They’ve completely done away with bunk beds, and instead opted for custom lockable murphy beds that fold out from the elegant wall cabinetry. Each hostel room has a limit of 4 beds, along with 4 large sized lockers to store your personal belongings. A large in-room bathroom with multiple sinks can be found within each room, making that awkward traipse down the hall to a shared bathroom a thing of the past. Each dorm style room includes a plasma screen TV along with an iPod/iPhone ready stereo, perfect for getting ready in the morning or sharing music with newfound friends.

Hostel rates at Hotel La Ferme are going to start at $49. While it’s slightly more expensive than your average dorm rate, keep in mind this isn’t your run of the mill hostel. Dorms will have 4 beds maximum and each will be treated with the same exceptional service as the hotel rooms.

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Local Eats at Les Labours

A hotel dedicated to providing a unique experience in all 4 seasons wouldn’t be complete without meals made with local in-season produce, most of which is grown in Le Massif’s own backyard. These class act dishes are prepared by Chef David Forbes and his incredible team. Their love and passion for providing visitors the chance to taste this magical region of Quebec is second to none. The menu at Les Labours changes with the seasons, giving you a chance to gawk at freshly crafted meals all year round.

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While You’re in Baie-Saint-Paul

While I could go on all day about how much I’m in love with Quebec and completely infatuated by Le Massif, there is more to this region than lounging around in comfy beds and eating delicious local food. During the summer, explore Rue St-Jean-Baptiste and browse through eclectic local artisan shops, sample the local Charlevoix Microbrews then find out why Baie-Saint-Paul is a mecca for painters, performers and artists of all kind. If nature is more your thing, whale watching tours, hiking trails, and secluded beaches along the Saint Lawrence River are all within walking distance.

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Come winter, ski the 770m (2,527 ft) of vertical at Le Massif. During the winterLe Train carries eager passengers from Quebec City (At Montmorency Falls) directly to the mountain, and continues to Baie-Saint-Paul where exhausted skiiers can relax at Hôtel La Ferme. The staff at the hotel informed me that waking up at Hôtel La Ferme in the winter is going to make for a great Canadian experience, as there will be a skating rink right in backyard of the eco-hotel.

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Baie-Saint-Paul is the heart and soul of arts and culture in Canada. The beauty of this region wasn’t just recently discovered, in fact, the infamous Group of Seven often visited the area, setting up their easel’s and painting the dramatic colours of this picturesque Quebecois landscape. The history of the culture and people in Baie-Saint-Paul and the entire region of Charlevoix is something to be truly appreciated. For anyone keen on exploring the province of Quebec, be sure to include Charlevoix & a stay at Hôtel La Ferme in your itinerary.

Special thanks to the folks at Le Massif for helping out and showing me around this great new project that is sure to bring in countless excited tourists.

A Local Quebecois Experience at Le Massif’s Hôtel La Ferme is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Ride the Yukon Trails with Boreale Mountain Biking http://ibackpackcanada.com/ride-the-yukon-trails-with-boreale-mountain-biking/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=ride-the-yukon-trails-with-boreale-mountain-biking http://ibackpackcanada.com/ride-the-yukon-trails-with-boreale-mountain-biking/#comments Thu, 07 Jun 2012 14:02:19 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=4676 Ride the Yukon Trails with Boreale Mountain Biking is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Flying down a narrow trail with twists, turns, jagged rocks and protruding tree roots, I couldn’t help but laugh in the face of the danger. As I made it to the bottom of the hill, I lowered my gear, and began pedalling uphill, distracting myself with memories of how I managed to find myself Mountain Biking in the Yukon.

I was picked up by a shuttle bus from Whitehorse, a small city of approximately 30,000 – home to the S.S Klondike and what locals like to call “the colourful 5%” – a cute name for the quirky individuals you’ll find in the North. Our group was driven 20 minutes out of town, along gravel roads lined with lush northern trees and pull up to a massive black trailer being unloaded with mountain bikes.

Corbin Fraser Mountain Biking

Photo by Tim Hogan

My group anxiously barrage our Mountain Bike Guides – Marsha, Sylvain, and Kate – with questions. “Will we see bears?” – “How hard is the terrain?” – “I’m new to this, will I survive?” – they politely smile and ensure we’ll all be safe, all have fun, and see some incredible sights along the Yukon River. Marsha concluded it all with, “As for the bears, the Yukon’s big, they have better places to hang than around us.” We were then given safety waivers to sign – just part of the process for being able to do an adventure tour worth.

Mountain Biking Safety

Photo by Tim Hogan

Fit for Comfort & Safety

Our group is a mix of those who’ve never seen a trail in their life, to those who casually partake in Mountain Biking whenever they get the chance. Experience level aside, everyone is getting along fine and eager for the ride. After being fitted with some premium mountain bikes by Sylvain and observing Kate – Mountain Bike Guide/Instructor – perform her magic (she appears to be able to accurately guess head circumference and fit helmets in one go), we go through a brief but thorough safety overview. Once everyone is feeling comfortable with their new rides, we start along the single track.

Yukon Mountain Biking

Photo by Tim Hogan

Easy Does It…

The first ten minutes we take it slow – feeling out the mountain bikes and acclimatizing to the hyper-sensitive disk brakes. I’ve flipped my personal mountain bike twice with the same setup (once in the middle of traffic, another time on a trail, graceful…I know), so I was glad to see our guides ensure everyone felt confident, including clumsy ol’ me.

Pro-tip (Care of Kate)

Keep only 1 finger (two at most!) on the front & rear brake to ensure you don’t hammer on them too hard, resulting in a painful face-plant. Disk brakes are awesome – but particular.

The simple single track track gradually builds in intensity. Brief inclines keep our glutes hard at work, while fast and bumpy downhill sections give us time rest our bodies, and increase our adrenaline. We dodge roots, jump fallen flora, and bounce gracefully over stoney outcrops. Twisting, crouching, bracing then stretching as we weave through some of the Yukon’s best mountain biking trails.

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A Stop at Miles Canyon

We rested at Miles Canyon, a small fjord surrounded by trees, and crossed by a suspension bridge. In the heat of the summer, locals have been known to jump the bridge and cool off in the frigid northern waters. A photo op ensues and we quickly discover who’s the “photo traveller” and who’s the “moment traveller”. We rehydrate, saddle up and push on.

Boreale Mountain Biking

Photo by Tim Hogan

Our guides lead us along the Yukon River, gradually pushing our group towards harder, and more exciting terrain. The conversation with the trail picks up – “Ahwwoooooooo” – followed by bursts of laughter. The screams of adrenaline (and fear) echoes through the valley and a smile refuses to leave my face.

Breathe In That Yukon Air

I breathe in the fresh mountain air and gulp down some water. Our guides ask if anyone is willing to do some tougher trails. I’m covered in sweat, slightly out of breathe, but happily raise my hand and am joined by five others. We separate from the herd with Sylvain and proceed to the more extreme side of Mountain Biking. Steep declines grace almost every inch of these trails. The front suspension absorbs the brunt of the force of jumping roots & rocks, my elbows and knees take the rest.

More speed, more adrenaline

Our final hour of the tour was spent chasing one another through advanced trails. Our nouveau group of six quickly became close friends, sharing water and “did you see that?!” tales from meters behind. We concluded the day back on a gravel clearing where the tailer was parked. High fives finished off the adventure and we agreed that some cold Yukon Brews were going to taste good tonight!

Boreale Mountain Biking

Photo by Tim Hogan

With the help of Boreale Mountain Biking, the Yukon has been put on the map in the mountain bike scene. Trails cover this Canadian territory, allowing riders to bike all day and night (note: the sun rarely completely sets during the summer months this far north). They also offer multi-day mountain bike tours through the region, where you get to experience the great Yukon outdoors and sleep in a series of Yurts set up along the trail. Boreale Mountain Biking is based out of Whitehorse. Mountain bike trips start at $90 Half Day / $165 Full Day

Special thanks to Tim Hogan for photographing the entire ride! 


Ride the Yukon Trails with Boreale Mountain Biking is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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6 Vancouver Parks worth checking out this Summer http://ibackpackcanada.com/6-vancouver-parks-worth-checking-out-this-summer/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=6-vancouver-parks-worth-checking-out-this-summer http://ibackpackcanada.com/6-vancouver-parks-worth-checking-out-this-summer/#comments Wed, 18 Apr 2012 13:15:55 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=4482 6 Vancouver Parks worth checking out this Summer is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Vancouver is a city for the outdoorsy. The amount of parks, acitivities, and scenic locations you can stumble upon in a 2 hour walk will astound you. It’s no surprise that Vancouver is rated as one of the healthiest city in Canada, with the lowest obesity rates, lowest rates of heavy drinking, and the most physicians per 100,000 people. It’s so easy to participate and get outdoors. Whether that means busting out a bicycle, or strapping on your jogging shoes, there’s hardly any reason not to assimilate into this healthy behaviour. What better place to absorb a new lifestyle than in Vancouvers Parks.


cc licensed ( BY NC SD ) flickr photo shared by hynkle

Lynn Canyon

While the Capilano Suspension Bridge is more popular, it’s also $25 dollars more expensive. Save yourself some money, and the headache of falling into a bit of a “tourist trap” and check out Lynn Canyon. It’s a short drive from downtown Vancouver and is an incredible location to take in the outdoors of Vancouver. The Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge looms beautifully over trees and gives you a great view of the area.

Cross the bridge and you’ll come across Baden Powell trail, a relatively novice hike that can get you all the way down to Rice Lake. Lynn Canyon has several trails, and many places to explore, including a few secluded spots to setup picnic and even go for a swim. This location offers some beautiful photo opportunities. What better way to take in Vancouver than above a BC river & twin waterfalls.


cc licensed ( BY NC ND ) flickr photo shared by JoshNV

Seymour Demonstration Forest

Not far from Lynn Canyon, bikers, hikers, walkers and strollers grace the Demonstration Forest on a daily basis. A great getaway to stretch your legs and enjoy some outdoor activity. There’s plenty of wildlife in the area, so keep your eyes peeled. If you’re looking for a paved trail, you’ll be happy to hear the Seymour Valley Trailway is just that. But be wary, it can be the busiest trail, so if you’re looking for a little “you time” and less “get out of my way please and thank you time” you should stick to the unpaved trails.


cc licensed ( BY NC SD ) flickr photo shared by Sinéad McKeown

Grouse Mountain

Many Vancouverites tend to take their wall of mountains for granted. North Vancouver has some of the most scenic views in the city, and Grouse Mountain is no exception. While it can be a bit touristy at times, and the crowd can be a bit of a headache on weekends, if you stop by midweek on a beautiful day you’re going to be in for a treat.

Grouse Mountain is an outdoorsy mecca. Whether you’re a runner, hiker, skiier, or crazy enough to hit the Grouse Grind (a 2.9 KM hike to the top with an elevation gain of 853 meters (2,800ft) known locally as the “Stair Master”), you’re sure to find a few ways to burn a couple hundred calories here. If you’re not at your physical peak and would rather take it easy, the Gondola ride to the top, followed by the free chairlift (which gets you even higher) can offer some of the most beautiful views of the area. Best of all, they’ve got ziplining!

Expect Grouse Mountain to be a “splurge” day, as it’s definitely not cheap to do, but if you’re planning on seeing Vancouver and experiencing the outdoors it’s worth a stop!


cc licensed ( BY SD ) flickr photo shared by dmealiffe

Stanley Park

Stanley Park is probably one of my favourite spots in all of Vancouver. This massive park has a notorious ability to make you think you’ve completely left the city. With countless walkways, a swimming pool, a zoo, a bunch of awesome monuments, totem poles, and all the free room you could ask for. Stanley Park offers locals and tourists the ability to enjoy the outdoors in a budget friendly fashion. Rent a bike and explore the trails, or strap on your favourite runners and see the park from a slightly higher speed than your ordinary walker.

Hands down one of the best city parks I’ve ever been to. Stanley Park is easily worth a full day if you have the time, or a half day if you’ve got other plans nearby.


cc licensed ( BY NC ND ) flickr photo shared by rickie22

Crab Park

Crab Park is a beautiful little park located in Gastown that’s always bustling with activity. Watch as the coast guard’s hovercraft cruises by, or dream of what it must be like to be rich and famous as you watch private helicopters take off from the city. While this Crab Park isn’t really the hiker friendly park that others in this list are, it’s convenient and offers some simple walks and gorgeous views of the city. I should note that some may be put off at this park by some the locals. Gastown can be notorious for it’s wide variety of characters, so just keep a smart head on you. Though at the end of the day you have to remember Vancouver is a very friendly city, even amongst the most quirky individuals.


cc licensed ( BY ND ) flickr photo shared by WriterGal39

Queen Elizabeth Park

Another great nearby and local park worth stopping by. While it may not be for the diehard hikers, it’s easily worth a relaxing stroll. This park is filled with simple trails, the occasional tennis player and lawn bowler, and some great views of downtown Vancouver. Queen Elizabeth Park offers plenty of great photo opportunities in this park, including some friendly people and a plant conservatory. Rain or shine it’s worth a stroll!

Vancouver’s a big city with countless parks to explore. Whether they’re small and simple with a few benches and a good view, or a park that competes with the rest of the world and pushes it’s visitors to try something new and break a bit of a sweat. Taking in the outdoors as much as possible is an incredibly “Vancouver” thing to do. I’ve heard people say they could never live in a city that get’s so much rain. But when you see an entire populace simply ignore it and continue on with their day to day lives, it’s easy to feel like you could too.

Am I missing any other awesome Vancouver Parks? Would love to hear from you in the comments below!

6 Vancouver Parks worth checking out this Summer is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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A Weekend in Quebec City for Red Bull Crashed Ice http://ibackpackcanada.com/weekend-in-quebec-city-for-red-bull-crashed-ice/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=weekend-in-quebec-city-for-red-bull-crashed-ice http://ibackpackcanada.com/weekend-in-quebec-city-for-red-bull-crashed-ice/#comments Wed, 21 Mar 2012 13:26:24 +0000 Corbin Fraser http://ibackpackcanada.com/?p=4185 A Weekend in Quebec City for Red Bull Crashed Ice is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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Crashed Ice has sparked my curiosity for years. The speed and grace of hockey, the agility of ski cross, and the obstacle course like adrenaline rush you would only expect to find in a military training facility. Quebec City was no fluke choice destination for this event, it’s narrow streets and steep hills make it seem like this was what it was built for. Crashed Ice has been on my bucket list for what seems like forever.

My younger sister and I joked (albeit terribly) about “crashing” Crashed Ice; however, it wasn’t until we figured out that this is likely going to be the last year we’ll both be in eastern Canada that we decided to make it happen. We hopped on a bus full of University students from all over Nova Scotia and made the pilgrimage to see the insanity with our own eyes.

Arriving in Quebec City was a breath of fresh air, and trust me, we needed it after that bus ride. It’s my experience that people tend to spoil, much like meat kept out of the refrigerator, after about 8 hours. Thankfully showers have the uncanny ability of washing off the miles from a 12 hour bus trip, and after a soak, a scrub, and downing one of the complimentary Red Bulls, I was ready to see the course.

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Crashed Ice Starting line

It was a short walk between the Delta Hotel and Le Château Frontenac, a magnificant hotel that opened in 1893 by the Canadian Pacific Railway. Le Château Frontenac is apparently the “most photographed hotel in North America”, but this weekend most seemed to be referring to it simply as “The Starting Line”. Situated at the base of Le Château Frontenac was the Crashed Ice Start platform that would propel equipped skaters, both male and female, along a 580 meter (0.58 km) long urban track.

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The Crashed Ice Course

The 2012 Crashed Ice course is roughly 4.5 meters (14.7 feet) wide. Combined with its 60 meter vertical and a length of 580 meters, the ice track requires skaters to plan their path wisely. As the whistle blows, skaters stride down Rue du Fort where they will come across the front of the Post Office. They’ll then come across a new addition this year, the 360 degree turn, right before arriving at what everyone is calling “The Splitter”. A 30 meter section of the course where skaters will be forced to pick sides. Fast & tight, or slow & wide. Once they survive “The Splitter” they’ll have the beauty of the Saint Lawrence in sigh, and it will be a fast sprint down “The Royal Corridor” where they’ll hit the final “Victory Turn” and race for the finish line at “Place de Paris”.

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Trois, Deux, Un

Our small group gathered along the boards of the course. The air was heavy in excitement as music and loud cheers were erupting from the growing crowd. The lights seemed to dim, as the announcer counted down the next race in one of the most powerful and inviting of french accents. The crowd exploded in cheers, my head was on a fast swivel as I watched skaters tear through ice, pushing every extra ounce of speed out of their trajectory. The sound of blades slicing through the rock hard ice sent shivers down my spine. The only logical thing to do was scream and hollar with the rest of the 105,000+ attendees.

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I proceeded to wander and get as many photos from alternative angles. Unfortunately navigating through the crowd was like crossing a river full of hungry piranahs. Nobody wanted to give up their spot, and everybody was craving a better view of the event. I used my best “Je m’excuse“, holding my camera above the heads of the crowd to snap blindly. I managed to find a few clearings throughout the track, which allowed for some incredible photo ops, along with a couple convorsations with spectators. Some were drunk, some were high, some were confused as to what was going on and just followed the crowd, and others were simply too french for me to understand. Whatever their case was, they were all smiling and enjoying the sights. There was no shortage of high fives that’s for sure.

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Ice Cold – Require Beer

As the hours flew by in excitement, toes began transforming into ice. Thankfully I wasn’t the only one feeling the cold. I found my younger sister and a couple of her friends and we proceeded to search for beer. We knew it had to be near the crowds somewhere. This was after all Quebec City, hands down the most “European” Canadian city in terms of liberties. We saw a group drinking beer out of plastic cups and proceeded to ask them “Ou est la bierre?!“, they said something I didn’t quite understand, but followed it by a solid smile and a point in the right direction.

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We followed the Crashed Ice track down, took the occasional side street to sneak by condensed groups that didn’t appear to be moving. Then finally, we came upon the finish line at “Place de Paris”. Greeted by lights, a couple of awesome french DJ’s, and a huge crowd of people. All of which had at least one beer in their hand. We made it! The beer warmed our spirits, which in turn allowed us to forget about our numbing feet.

As we overlooked this great walled Canadian city, chalk full of life, lights, culture, and people from all over the world, I couldn’t help but smile. Quebec City, one of Canada’s oldest city’s is in bed with one of the worlds newest sports, and it couldn’t be more beautiful. The downtown lights and coloured stage lights add an eerie glow to the gothic features of the castle like city. It’s hard not to take photos!

Quebec City 2012

Merci Beaucoup Quebec

Looking up at Quebec City from the bottom of the Crashed Ice course, it was clear to me that this city is something special to Canada. It’s a piece of beautiful difference lined with cobblestone, and spoken almost entirely in french. Quebec is one of those locations where assuming everyone speaks even a bit of english is seen as foolish. While the language barrier can make simple things take an extra minute or two, ultimately everyone in this city is happy to help, even if that means you have to speak in “bastardized” french.

As the final races finished, party’s erupted across Quebec City. Beer was consumed in honour of Saint Patrick, in honour of the winners, the losers, the french, the english, and the beautiful city that graciously hosts this event year. Red Bull Crashed Ice is one of those events that words can only do so much to describe. Next March, pack your bags and see it for yourself!

 Video of 2012 Crashed Ice in Quebec City

 

A Weekend in Quebec City for Red Bull Crashed Ice is a post from: I Backpack Canada

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