I was picked up, alongside a french canadian fellow and a korean exchange student, at the VIA Rail Churchill Station by Belinda Fitzpatrick, the owner and manager of Tundra Inn and Tundra House Hostel. On our short drive, I learned that she’s an Australian that fell in love with the north and never left. She married a local fellow and started the hostel, based on her worldly experiences, and has been loving every day of it. She gave us a brief run down on safety and smiled the entire time, clearly loving what she does.

Welcome to the Tundra House Hostel

As we pulled up to 51 Franklin Street, Belinda showed us around the Tundra House Hostel. I hung up my jacket and took a quick tour of this cute and cozy home away from home, with a shared kitchen, on-site laundry, free wifi, private and dorm style rooms, and one of the most comfy common living rooms I’ve ever set foot in. The spacious dining area is the perfect place to swap stories with other travellers or share a beer.

The Tundra House Hostel is a stones throw away from the Tundra Inn Pub, what would soon become one of my favourite spots to grab a pint and a delicious bite. If you’re in Churchill for squeezing in as many tours as humanly possible, you’ll be happy to hear that you’re never more than a few blocks away from your tour operators. Whether you plan on getting out in the Tundra Buggy, or want to kayak with Belugas, it’s a superb location for those wanting to experience as much of Churchill as possible.

Tundra House Hostel Does It Right

I’ve been to countless hostels. Between the small run ma & pop hostels to the big chain HI Hostels, to the party fueled hostels of Samesun Backpackers. While each have something unique to offer, the Tundra House Hostel pulls off something incredible. Within half a day, this place became my home away from home. Friends share stories, connections are made, and next thing you know you find out you’ve got a lot of the same interests. The common question you’ll hear in Churchill is “What brought you up this far north?” – the answer seems to be consistent. Adventure, curiosity, wildlife, or for some, because it was on the VIA Rail line.

Churchill is a beautiful destination, and while it can be a bit pricey in terms of accommodation, Tundra House Hostel is a breathe of fresh air for the budget traveller. With rooms starting at $32 per night, it’s perfect for squeezing the most of your money and putting it into some of the unique tours & experiences that are offered in Churchill.

See Churchill on the Cheap with Tundra House Hostel is a post from: I Backpack Canada

The Metis Infinity Flag

1. The Local People

On the northbound train from Winnipeg to Churchill, you’ll hear stories. People warn you to be careful up there. While you should be careful wherever you go, and avoid confrontation with everyone you meet while traveling, those warnings were completely blown out of the water after the first day in Churchill. Between the friendly staff, the locals walking by on the street, and yes, even the beer drinkers at the pub, I didn’t have a single run in with anyone I couldn’t shoot the poop with. The people of Churchill are a friendly bunch and happy to talk travel, wildlife, and adventures. With such a beautiful landscape surrounding the region, locals of every colour, culture, and creed tend to have something good to say about Churchill.

2. The Danger

There’s something exciting, knowing that every time you step foot outside of a house or building, you have to be aware of your surroundings. Traipsing around without a care in the world, could lead you to be a tasty dinner for a full grown polar bear. While it’d be crazy for everyone to carry a gun wherever they went, the people of Churchill have devised a much simpler solution. They don’t lock their doors. Should you come across a big hungry polar bear, run to the nearest house and you’re almost guaranteed to be able to walk right in, and stay until the bear is dealt with. Tour companies like the Tundra Buggy Tours deal with this danger by using custom built giant bus’s tall enough to keep standing polar bears at bay.

3. The Wildlife

While there are no doubt some dangers when you visit a small town that is more or less surrounded by Polar Bears, fact is, they’re what bring most people up north. I’ll never forget, as I was on a zodiac in the middle of the Churchill River, less than a couple Miles from the Hudson Bay, seeing a Polar Bear enjoying a meal he’d caught at the edge of the water. While Polar Bears are the celebrities up here, the Belugas are a close second in the fame game. Since beluga’s were more friendly to me snapping photos, they win this reason! Be sure to have a good zoom lens if you plan on taking any photos of wildlife – or at the very least a decent set of binoculars. You’ll thank me later!

4. The Adventures

If seeing wildlife from afar isn’t enough, the folks at Sea North Adventure Tours can get you closer than anyone to the belugas & polar bears. Between their Kayak Adventures, their Zodiac Tours, & their boat tours, they also offer snorkelling with Belugas, where you get up close and personal with these magnificent creatures. In the small town of Churchill, there is no shortage of adventures to find yourself on. Go off-roading in the Tundra Buggy’s, custom built giant rovers that cruise over land and water in search of Polar Bears. Churchill isn’t just somewhere you can stop over for a day and say you saw it. In order to experience every bit of it, you need to get out of town and see what this place is really all about.

5. The Travellers

I’m not sure what it is. Maybe the cold air, the difficulty in getting this far north, or just the spirit of adventure that Churchill inspires within people, but the travellers / tourists that find themselves up here. They’re cut from a different cloth. They’re here for unique reasons. During my brief stay in Churchill I met multiple German backpackers, exploring all that Canada has to offer, I had beers with two women from Minnesota who spent over 2 months kayaking to Churchill, I met a French Canadian student protester who explained to me in his point of view what the big fuss was all about, and a korean student who came up to Churchill on a whim to find work. Those who find themselves up here tend be of the inspirational & interesting variety.

6. The History

The Dorset, The Thule, The Dene, The Chipewyan and the Cree Natives had all inhabited this region. Their history, art, and culture can be absorbed at the Churchill Eskimo Museum, home to some knowledgeable staff, and a variety of carvings, and historical findings from the area. They say that it was the Dorset & Thule people who encountered the Vikings in the 11th century. Their people recount how large and strong the vikings were, but how easily they were scared off. If first nations history isn’t your cup, Churchill Fort is a must. Suspected to be built by the stone masons, and home to some incredible british and french colonialism history.

7. The Food

Despite the fact that food is difficult to get up north, which in turn makes fresh goods tough to come by, the local Churchill restaurants do surprisingly well. Grab a hearty breakfast at the Seaport Hotel, then work up an apetite for lunch. Gypsy’s Bakery & Restaurant pump out high quality food that keeps everyone coming back. After getting a healthy dose of outdoors and wildlife, stop by The Tundra Inn Pub. This isn’t your average pub grub. Between the quality salads, the massive burgers, the superb pizzas, and their sushi Friday’s, they’ve got plenty to choose from. Hang around after for some live music, billiards, and some good old fashion drinking. A night or two at The Tundra Inn Pub will guarantee you at least a couple of stories to take home.

8. The Tundra House Hostel

While there are several great hotel deals in the area, I can’t say enough about my stay at the Tundra House Hostel. It’s really more of a house than a hostel, but I think I can speak for many, in saying that when you’re travelling, the revolving door of the “big chain hostels” can sometimes make it hard to meet people. The great thing about Tundra House Hostel is not only how cozy it is, but how easy it is to meet people. After all, the train is only in town a couple of times per week, so you’re guaranteed a few days with other travellers, which is plenty of time to make friendships that can last a lifetime. The beds are outstanding and clean, the kitchen, dining room, and living room are exactly what you’d expect to find in any ordinary house. After a long day of taking in Churchill, unwind in the living room and decompress to the sound of the ticking clock.

Churchill has a way of keeping people. You’ll meet countless locals with the same story. One visit, followed by a second, then they never really left, or at least keep finding themselves back in this unique part of Canada. It reminds me a lot of Dawson City in the Yukon. Slightly closed off from the rest of the world. While accessible to most, the difficulty of getting up there keeps the box stores and the chain restaurants away.  The locals seem truly grateful for each tourist or traveller they meet in their own slice of the tundra. It’s a beautiful thing to see a small town thrive.

8 Reasons I Can’t Get Churchill Off My Mind is a post from: I Backpack Canada

In true rockstar fashion, I was swept up by a limo company as soon as I landed in Toronto, and brought to the Cambridge Suites in downtown Toronto. While I’m used to public transport and splitting cabs with fellow airportee’s, I have to admit, having your own driver is something I could get used to. After dropping off my backpack in these luxury Toronto Suites, I promptly grabbed the 505 Streetcar to Chinatown. Chinatown; however, wasn’t my destination. A short walk and I was back in one of my favourite neighbourhoods of Toronto. Kensington Market.

Kensington Market

The streets of Kensington Market are filled with local produce, small restaurantes, patios, vintage shops, hand made crafts, and the occasional smell of incense. For those who’ve ever been to Australia, I like to compare this area of Toronto as “Byron Bay”, but without the beach. It’s a gathering place for free-spirits, hip young adults, and people interested in seeing a local side of Toronto.

Having not eaten in 7 hours, my gut was beyond grumbling. It was screaming at me to feed it. Everything looked so good though, and decision making has never been a skill I’ve excelled at. Mexican? A bakery? Burgers? Pub grub? Then, of the corner of my eye, I gazed upon The Grilled Cheese. I B-lined it there, and ordered the best Grilled Cheese sandwich I’ve ever eaten.

After inhaling a tremendous amount of cheese, I ran into a fellow Cross-Canada travel blogger, Frankie Bird of As the Bird Flies. As someone who’s been to Kensington Market a handful of times I was nominated as leader. In true Canadian fashion, I found beer. Mill Street beer, Steamwhistle & Tankhouse to be exact. The patio of The Last Temptation is one of my favourite spots to people watch in Toronto. The patio & window seating is just high enough to observe a bit of everything going on around you, and the food & drinks are surprisingly easy on the pocket.

The Bata Shoe Museum

After intros and pitchers of beer, it was time to see some more of Toronto. While we discussed the possibility of the CN Tower, as well as the Royal Ontario Museum, it was the Bata Shoe Museum that won our attention. A museum dedicated to the history of footwear. Thousands of years of it! Hands down one of the most interesting and cute museums I’d ever been to. It also gave me a huge appreciation for the sneakers I wear, and added even more respect to women for putting up with some of the uncomfortable footwear they’ve endured in the past, and continue to occasionally wear today.

Pimm’s, Gin, & a Filet Mignon

By 630pm the rest of the group had congrugated to the lobby of the Cambridge Suites, and we left as a group to Easy & Fifth. A trendy and unique restaurant located a short old-fashioned elevator ride above one of Toronto’s funnest clubs. It was there that I enjoyed Pimm’s & Gin, tackled a lovely salad, then finished it off with what might have been the tastiest and best cooked filet mignon I’d ever ordered.

For 24 hours in Toronto, we squeezed in a bunch, but we’d only just scratched the surface, and there was more TIFF & Toronto sights, sounds, and eats to take in. All in all, a great way to start off a superb trip catered to showing the world a slice of Toronto.

Grilled Cheese, Mill Street Beer, A Museum of Shoes, & a Heckuva Time is a post from: I Backpack Canada

Toronto Beekeepers Co-operative

The Toronto Beekepers Co-operative started around 2002 with a small group of volunteers that worked hand in hand with experienced beekepers. The movement for beekeeping in Toronto’s urban core was born. Their goal is simple, to educate the public about the value of bees to Toronto’s landscape and ecosystem. I caught up with the Toronto Beekeepers Co-operative at the Live Green Toronto Festival in July, where new recruits and volunteers happily educated curious attendees, both young and old. While most were watching the live music acts, I was drawn to the beekepers white tent and superhero-esque safety masks.

Local Toronto Honey Products

The Toronto Beekepers Co-operative not only explained the importance of honeybee’s in the environment, something most people are aware of these days, but they also sold local made goods, such as lip balm, hand creams, and yes, jars and jars of honey. They happily showed that there isn’t anything to be scared of with Honeybees. They’re quite peaceful and will only attack if you’re posing a threat to the hive. They have better things to do, like pollinating the worlds food supply and hanging out with their very extended family.

Fairmont Royal Yorks Grassroots Movement

I had a great grandfather who was a beekeeper in Saskatchewan. He passed away when I was young, but my mother would always remind me how smart of a man he was. He farmed most of his life, made his own batteries, rebuilt a train caboose just because he could, and whenever a part in his vehicle would break down, he’d make a replacement part rather than go out and buy one. Aside from being a jack of all trades, he must have had a sweet tooth, because he kept multiple hives throughout his years.

I always felt that the ingenuity of yesteryear had gone the way of the dinosaurs. That is, until I heard about the success at the Fairmont Royal York in downtown Toronto. This “grassroots” movement isn’t just for the alternative lifestylists living off the grid. The Fairmont Royal York is taking a very eco-friendly and local approach to some of the goods and services they offer to their guests.

The Fairmont Royal York’s Apiary

The Fairmont Royal York has been using the roof of their historical hotel to care for six beehives. With the help of the Toronto Beekeepers Co-operative they are now using this local on-site honey in many of the dishes they serve to their guests. The success of this first roof-top apiary encouraged other Fairmont Hotels across North America to join the movement. During peak season in the summer, over 350,000 honeybees live and thrive in the six beehives on Toronto’s Fairmont Royal York, producing roughly 450 pounds of Fairmont honey per year!

The Fairmonts Homegrown Experience

This eco-friendly, local movement is a superb edition to the Fairmont Royal York’s already astounding hotel. The hotel is conveniently located across the street from Toronto’s Union Station, which worked out perfectly with my cross Canada by VIA Rail adventure. If there’s a place to splurge after being on the Train for hours, it’s got to be in Toronto’s Fairmont. Seeing a big city like Toronto paving the way for more homegrown experiences is something Torontonians should be extremely proud of!

Cities are evolving quickly as more and more people leave the rural parts of Canada to live in a big city. I can’t help but feel like we’re making steps in the right direction. This desire to be a little more self sufficient, a lot more green, and best of all, living in symbiosis with the world around us, including plants, animals, humans, and fuzzy, black and yellow insects.

Big thanks to the folks at Toronto Tourism for helping show off their city, and extra big thanks to the Fairmont Royal York for letting me kick back and explore their hotel for a night. 

Toronto Loves Honeybees! is a post from: I Backpack Canada

Montmorency Falls to Charlevoix by “Le Train”

Getting to Hôtel La Ferme  in Charlevoix Quebec is half of the adventure. While driving is an option, to truly take in the experience you’ll want to catch the train. From downtown Quebec City you’ll need to drive, cab, or bus to Montmorency Falls. Be sure to show up early to take in Quebec’s famous Waterfall and snap photos of the small bridge that crosses overtop. If you find yourself above the falls you’ll want to take the Gondola down ($10.39 Round Trip per Adult). Waiting patiently at the bottom of this magnificent vista is Le Train. Le Massif’s luxury locomotive that travels between Quebec City to Baie-Saint-Paul and onwards to La Malbaie.

The ride north by train to Baie St Paul and La Malbaie includes some impeccable meals made with local Quebec produce along with one of the best views of the Fleuve Saint Laurent (Saint Lawrence River). In true “Cirque du Soleil” fashion, the entire journey is orchestrated with video, music, and a live map of the trains location in Charlevoix. Throughout the entire journey you’ll learn about the history and importance of this region with the help of an array of iPads found on each dining table. After experiencing the sights, sounds, and tastes from the train, disembark at Baie-Saint-Paul – the train literally stops right beside the hotel!

What sets Hôtel La Ferme apart?

Le Massif’s hotel/hostel/resort hybrid is something completely original and unique to not only Quebec, but Canada. Daniel Gauthier, the man who co-founded the internationally acclaimed “Cirque Du Soleil” is behind this incredible project. This new 4 seasons hotel is home to swiss inspired luxury rooms along with budget friendly hostel dormitory rooms, perfect for a group of friends on a ski getaway or the lone vagabond exploring Charlevoix. The backyard gardens play a large role with Hôtel La Ferme’s restaurant “Les Labours“, which uses produce they grow themselves in all of it’s meals. This new eco-local-friendly hybrid accommodation provides access to some of Baie St Paul’s most beautiful walking trails and some of the best views of the Fleuve Saint Laurent (Saint Lawrence River).

The idea is to appeal to not only high end travellers looking to relax, but university students and budget travellers. Young adults who want to hit the slopes of Le Massif during the winter while being given an affordable and luxurious room. While these different types of travellers are in separate buildings, they share access to a common lounge, bar, cafe, performance center as well as “Les Labours” – more on it below. The idea is to promote social engagement, and giving equal access to the luxury amenities that are available at Hôtel La Ferme.

The Hotel Rooms of Le Massif’s Hôtel La Ferme

Not a single detail has been missed at what is likely to become one of Quebec’s most popular tourist destinations. Between the beautiful Canadiana art, the locally produced blankets that adorn each bed, to the salvaged wood from the Charlevoix area that can been seen throughout the hallways and rooms across the entire complex. Beautiful oak hardwood floors can be seen in each and every room, along with some sturdy hand-made cabinetry. A plasma screen TV, iPod/iPhone ready stereo and a “Nesspresso” machine with pop in espresso capsules can be found in each hotel room.

Stepping foot into the bathroom is like walking into something you’d expect to see in the TV show “Cribs”. The glass walled shower sports two shower heads, perfect for those who don’t like to shower alone. Don’t forget to try out their luxury soap, shampoo, and conditioner, it will blow that Pantene ProV you brought along out of the water.

Hôtel La Ferme Reinvented Hostel Rooms

It’s been my experience that the majority of hostels tend to suffer from shoddy bedding, cheap mattresses, loud, squeaky and inconvenient bunk beds, and far too many people crammed into the same room. The folks at Le Massif have replaced “cheap accommodations” in lieu of “budget accommodations”, without sacrificing the quality and craftsmanship seen throughout the rest of the Hotel.

They’ve completely done away with bunk beds, and instead opted for custom lockable murphy beds that fold out from the elegant wall cabinetry. Each hostel room has a limit of 4 beds, along with 4 large sized lockers to store your personal belongings. A large in-room bathroom with multiple sinks can be found within each room, making that awkward traipse down the hall to a shared bathroom a thing of the past. Each dorm style room includes a plasma screen TV along with an iPod/iPhone ready stereo, perfect for getting ready in the morning or sharing music with newfound friends.

Local Eats at Les Labours

A hotel dedicated to providing a unique experience in all 4 seasons wouldn’t be complete without meals made with local in-season produce, most of which is grown in Le Massif’s own backyard. These class act dishes are prepared by Chef David Forbes and his incredible team. Their love and passion for providing visitors the chance to taste this magical region of Quebec is second to none. The menu at Les Labours changes with the seasons, giving you a chance to gawk at freshly crafted meals all year round.

While You’re in Baie-Saint-Paul

While I could go on all day about how much I’m in love with Quebec and completely infatuated by Le Massif, there is more to this region than lounging around in comfy beds and eating delicious local food. During the summer, explore Rue St-Jean-Baptiste and browse through eclectic local artisan shops, sample the local Charlevoix Microbrews then find out why Baie-Saint-Paul is a mecca for painters, performers and artists of all kind. If nature is more your thing, whale watching tours, hiking trails, and secluded beaches along the Saint Lawrence River are all within walking distance.

Come winter, ski the 770m (2,527 ft) of vertical at Le Massif. During the winter, Le Train carries eager passengers from Quebec City (At Montmorency Falls) directly to the mountain, and continues to Baie-Saint-Paul where exhausted skiiers can relax at Hôtel La Ferme. The staff at the hotel informed me that waking up at Hôtel La Ferme in the winter is going to make for a great Canadian experience, as there will be a skating rink right in backyard of the eco-hotel.

Baie-Saint-Paul is the heart and soul of arts and culture in Canada. The beauty of this region wasn’t just recently discovered, in fact, the infamous Group of Seven often visited the area, setting up their easel’s and painting the dramatic colours of this picturesque Quebecois landscape. The history of the culture and people in Baie-Saint-Paul and the entire region of Charlevoix is something to be truly appreciated. For anyone keen on exploring the province of Quebec, be sure to include Charlevoix & a stay at Hôtel La Ferme in your itinerary.

Special thanks to the folks at Le Massif for helping out and showing me around this great new project that is sure to bring in countless excited tourists.

A Local Quebecois Experience at Le Massif’s Hôtel La Ferme is a post from: I Backpack Canada

Located in the downtown core of Ottawa, Ontario is one of the most unique hostels you can rest your head for the night. On 75 Nicholas Street is the HI Ottawa Jail Hostel – known for it’s intriguing history, and it’s unique ability to freak visitors out. The building that houses the hostel holds some incredible secrets, both completely true stories, and for those who believe in the paranormal, some serious hauntings.

The History of the Ottawa Jail Hostel

Built in 1862, The Carleton County Gaol was a working jail up until 1972 when it was finally closed, then eventually converted into one of Hostelling Internationals most unique hostels in its massive network. The hostel currently sleeps 110 visitors in a variety of rooms, including dorms, privates and shared. While there isn’t anything that sinister going on in the hostel besides the occasional drunk backpacker home from a night out, in its heyday, criminals were not only locked up here, many were put to their death.

Hangings in Canada

During it’s long history as a jail, the Carleton County Gaol was the location of many criminals final breaths as up to 5 official hangings took place in the still functional gallows of the jail. That number is refuted by many as there have been upwards of 150 unmarked graves found on the property – some believe that unsanctioned hangings took place at the jail. One famous hanging that took place at the Carleton County Gaol is that of Patrick J. Whelan for the suspected assisination of Thomas D’Arcy McGee. Whelan maintained his innocence the entire time, and it’s said to be his ghost that is occasionally spotted at the foot of visitors beds or walking the halls of the top floor, where his final days were spent.

Tour the Haunted Jail Hostel

If the thought of waking up to the ghost of a dead man freaks you out a little too much, you can bite of a little piece of the hostel by reserving a spot on one of Ottawa’s Haunted Walking Tours. The Ottawa Haunted Walk’s take place rain or shine all year round through the streets of old Ottawa and through the hostel. Spots fill up fast so be sure to call ahead to book your reservation. A free tour of the hostel is typically given by hostel staff as well, so be sure to enquire if you’re staying the night at the hostel.

While I am a pretty large non-believer in ghosts, ghouls, or anything paranormal for that matter – I will admit that walking through the halls of the old jail does have a creepy vibe to it. Perhaps it’s the thought of young men my own age, waiting to be put to their death. Maybe it’s the insane conditions that prisoners of this jail endured. Regardless, the entire building seeps tales of murder, violence, and cruelty – making it the perfect place to rest your head for a few days while taking in the beautiful city of Ottawa.

The Haunted Jail Hostel of Ottawa is a post from: I Backpack Canada

North of North Head

Located just a short drive beyond North Head, a small community on Grand Manan Island, is a campground unlike any I’ve ever had the fortune of visiting. Hole in the Wall Campground is known for being the only accessible point for hikers and campers to view the scenic geological formation. Over the countless thousands of years, erosion carved a massive hole through a rock, making a beautiful and highly photogenic stone arch. While the Hole in the Wall is a great attraction to bring people to the campgrounds, the experience is home to more than simply finding it. A visit to the Hole in the Wall campgrounds wouldn’t be complete with at least one night on one of the cliffside campsites that surround their corner of the island.

Touring The Campgrounds

As Riley and I were given a tour of the grounds by the incredibly friendly Darren, we were shown many of his favourite spots. Needless to say, it wasn’t a surprise that they were all cliff side locations. Staring out from the top of the cliffs it was clear to see that Grand Manan Island is much bigger than we thought. The expanse of trees atop sharp jagged rock colliding with the blue waters of the Bay of Fundy was enough to send shivers down my spine. With rougly 64 campsites in the grounds (seasons can cause this to vary), the variety in landscapes allows for camping for anyone. Safer more inland sites for families, less downhill for those who rode in on their bikes, and obviously the water front locations for those who are a little more adventurous.

Hike to the Hole in the Wall

After setting up our tent, we decided to start the trek to the namesake of the campgrounds. The Hole in the Wall – a majestic piece of rock on the coast of Grand Manan Island, made famous for it’s massive hole inside the center, forming a beautiful arch that reaches out into the Bay. The hike is fairly intermediate, good shoes, and a proper sense of self will help you wonders on these tight narrow trails. One wrong foot and you could find yourself in a situation that most wouldn’t find fun. The Hole in the Wall is about a 15 – 20 minute hike in from the edge of the bush. As the trees open up and this massive example of erosion peers from below, I found it hard not to smile. The sun was shining beautifully, the rustling of leaves and the gentle breeze off the water made it one of those moments that need to be experienced to truly believe.

The Great New Brunswick Outdoors

Hole in the Wall Campground is owned and operated by Kaye Small, a local to the island with an outstanding knowledge of the history of the island and a clear passion for providing travellers from all over the world with a unique experience that can only be found on this small island in New Brunswick. Kaye happily accommodates both hikers and campers interested in experiencing the outdoors of Grand Manan Island.

Clear Night Skies on Grand Manan

Our night camping on our own piece of cliff included a warm campfire, hot dogs on a stick, a few beers, and one of the most unreal night time skies. After a few attempts I managed to capture what I thought was a beautiful image of what we were looking at. Stars slicing through clouds, the Swallowtail Lightstation a few miles south shining its light, and the silhouette of hundreds of trees. Riley and I celebrated after the image with another beer and a few laughs around the campfire.

Not a Camper? Not a problem!

Hiking in the park and to the Hole in the Wall is completely free; so if lack of camping gear is keeping you from spending the night, don’t hesitate to wander up anyway. Hiking Maps are available for those interested, but if your sense of direction is good, you can follow the trails without any problem. A hike to the Hole in the Wall will take you 15 to 20 minutes if you start at the head of the trail – and closer to 45 minutes if you start from the campground gates.

For those looking to experience this unique campground in it’s entirety, book one of the cliff side campsites for $32 per night and take in the fresh air off the Bay of Fundy, the beautiful sunsets, some incredible stargazing, and you might even get lucky and be woken by the sound of breaching whales. Hands down, Hole in the Wall Campgrounds is one of the most unique and exciting accommodations you can find on Grand Manan Island.

Camping on a Cliff at Hole in the Wall Campgrounds – A New Brunswick Experience is a post from: I Backpack Canada

Blacks Harbour to Grand Manan

The hour and a half ride flew by thanks to the luxury ride by Grand Manan Ferry Service. With flat screens located all over the passenger deck, a cafeteria, a superb viewing deck, and some of the comfiest seats you’ll find on a ship, it made getting off the boat seem like a chore. Climbing up to the upper deck, we took in our last bit of open sea air. As predicted by the locals, the fog opened up just as the Ferry approached the island – making for a unique vista of wet rocks, sharp cliffs, lush trees, and warm glowing fog.

The Marathon Inn

As the ferry unloaded its passengers and cargo, I drove our rental car two minutes from the island jetty to the Marathon Inn. Accommodations are pretty limited on this little island in the middle of the Bay of Fundy; but you’ll find all the comforts of home in this old manor. Located just up the road from the Post Office and the delightfully decadano Island Arts Cafe. Speaking to Jim, the owner of the Marathon Inn, it’s clear to see he’s passionate about life on the island. A tour through the Marathon Inn allows you to explore every creak in the wood floors and take in the Grand Manan decor of this old cozy house.

Hike The Island Trails

A visit to Grand Manan Island wouldn’t be complete without a few hikes. I was craving some outdoor experiences, which eventually ended with an evening hike up to the Swallowtail lightstation. This lighthouse is great for photos and provides a superb view of the large expanse of the Bay of Fundy. If the cliffside winds of the lighthouse hike scare you off, hang tight until the morning for a drive to Anchorage Provincial Park. There’s a few light hiking trails with hidden viewing cabins, which have been setup for bird watchers and wildlife fanatics. The trails to the station are pretty tame in comparison to some of the more experienced trails, such as those at Hole in the Wall campgrounds – they have a large network of hiking trails, perfect for getting your heart going and even better for snapping photos!

Sea Kayaking in the Bay of Fundy

Being surrounded with the largest tides in the world, some of the most picturesque scenery, and an ongoing amount of whales visiting the island, there’s no reason not to get out on the open water in a sea kayak. The fine folks at Adventure High on Grand Manan Island, located on Route 776, a short 2 minute drive from the Marathon Inn, warmly welcomed us to the island. Our guide for the day was Elliott, a local who’s spent the majority of his life on Grand Manan Island. His knowledge of the history of the island was superb, and his patience and advice he provided Riley, a first timer to the world of kayaking, was second to none.

We paddled towards the Swallowtail lighthouse to take in the view from below. An old lighthouse that proudly looks over the shores of the island. Remnants of the history of the lighthouse could be found all around, including lifts that would supply the lighthouse keeper with goods that kept him alive during the entire year. We paddled through massive wooden spikes that had been hammered into the ground, my prairie upbringing forced me to ask “What’s with the wood?” – Elliott explained that Grand Manan is home to countless Fishing Weirs. Fish are trapped with the large tidal bores and these massive netted fences, then hauled from the waters once they’re full. My flatlander mind was officially blown. Sea Kayaking around Grand Manan Island is a must-do activity! It really lets you appreciate the size of the island.

The North Head Bakery

Grand Manan Island is also home to a cute little bakery, serving some of the freshest goods you can find on the island. Walking into this little shop, the smell of fresh baked bread and coffee flood your senses, practically forcing you to whip out your wallet and scream “Please, I’ll take anything! It all smells so good!“. The friendly staff welcomes each visitor as if they’re a local, smiling and happily explaining what baked goods you’re staring at longingly for. Be sure to stop by around lunch for their home made pizza. During my lunch time stop they were serving Oregano Parmesan Pizza – after finishing my giant slice it was hard not to jump over the front counter and hug the staff for baking that magical slice. A visit to Grand Manan Island requires at least one visit to this shop of tasty dreams come true.

Castalia Marsh

Driving back to North Head from Anchorage Provincial Park, be sure to make a quick stop into Castalia Marsh, a serene topography change that covers a good chunk of the island. A small boardwalk and a few paths allow you to walk through the marsh without getting stuck. The flat surface of the marsh gives you a great appreciation for the elevation changes on the island. If you’re big into bird watching, be sure to check out the Castalia Marsh Retreat, where you can stay in some beautiful little cabins that overlook North Head, Swallowtail lightstation, and the Bay of Fundy.

Hole in the Wall

Whether you’re looking for a unique camping experience, or to see an incredibly old geological formation, a quick jaunt north of North Head will bring you to Hole in the Wall Campgrounds. The grounds are open to hikers and campers (camping will cost you a bit, hiking is free). If you’ve never had the luxury of camping on a cliff side overlooking the Bay of Fundy – this is hands down the best place to do it. Hike the 15 – 20 minute trail to Hole in the Wall and find one of Grand Manan’s most photographed formations. The stone arch leaps out of the water connecting to the sharp edges of Grand Manan Island.

I hate using the cliche words like ‘Hidden Gem’, ‘Quaint’, ‘Unique and mystifying’, but there’s no better words in the english language to describe Grand Manan Island. From the friendly locals, to the scenic drives, to the rugged beauty, to the interesting history of the island, it’s no wonder that visitors from all over the world will somehow or another find a way to this little island in the Bay of Fundy. If you’re going to stop at all in New Brunswick, a side trip to Grand Manan Island is well worth the effort!

A Weekend on New Brunswicks Grand Manan Island is a post from: I Backpack Canada